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The Sydney Bushwalker

JUNE 2006 issue No. 860

THIS MONTH INCLUDES…..

REGULAR FEATURES

Presidents Report - Jan Roberts

Editors Message and Letters to the Editor From the Committee Room - Bill Holland New Members Notes - Maurice Smith Treasurers Report - Anita Doherty

Walks Report - David Trinder

Mid-Week Walkers Report - Bill Holland Social Notes & Social Program - Kathy Gero

SPECIAL FEATURES

Oxfam Trailwalker August, 2006 - Caro Ryan Leaders Profile - Terry Moss

CONSERVATION

Coolana Report - Gretel Woodward Conservation News & Notes - Bill Holland

THE WALKS PAGES

Curing a Volley Addiction - Richard Thompson The Story of the Great River Walk

- Roger Treagus

Walks Notes - Barry Wallace

Walking and Whale Watching - Bill Holland Los Cuatro Amigos En Cile YPeru - Susi Arnott

ADVERTISERS Alpsport

Wild Asia

Williss Walkabouts Wilderness Transport Paddy Pallin

ney Bushwalker: First Edition July 1931 blication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. Page 2

The Sydney Bushwalker

July 2006 |

About Our Club

The Sydney Bush Walkers was formed in 1927 for the purpose of bringing bushwalkers together; enabling them to appreciate the great outdoors; establishing a regard for conservation and promoting social activities. The Clubs main activity is bushwalking but includes other activities such as cycling, canoeing and social events.

Our Walks Program (published quarterly) features day walks on most Saturdays and Sundays, some mid week walks and overnight weekend walks. Extended walks are organised in areas such as the Warrumbungles, Snowy Mountains, etc as well as interstate.

Our meetings start at 8pm and are held on Wednesday evenings (see Social Programme) at Kirribilli Neighbourhood Centre, 16 Fitzroy Street, Kirribilli (near Milsons Point Railway Station).

Visitors and prospective members are welcome. Website: www.sbw.org.au

Office Bearers

Members are welcome to contact the following officers on Club matters: President: Jan Roberts 9411 5517 (h) janc.roberts@bigpond.com Vice President: Margaret Carey 9957 2137 (h) margaret_carey@bigpond.com Secretary: Greta James 9953 8384 (h) gjam6037@bigpond.net.au Walks Secretary: David Trinder 9660 9945 (h) dt28@tpg.com.au Social Secretary: Kathy Gero 9130 7263 (h) social@sbw.org.au Treasurer: Anita Doherty 9456 5592 (h) alinta@bigpond.net.au Members Secretary: Fran Holland 9484 6636 (h) fernband@bigpond.com New Members Secretary: Maurice Smith 9587 6325 (h) newmembers@sbw.org.au Conservation Secretary: Bill Holland 9484 6636 (h) billhoiland@bigpond.com Magazine Editor: Pam Campbell 9570 2885 (h) pamela.campbell@bigpond.com Committee Members: Ron Watters wattersr@bigpond.net.au Caro Ryan 9909 1076 (h) justshootme@ozemaii.com.au Delegates to Confederation:

Jim Callaway

(no email address)

Wilf Hilder walkingwilfgretel@bigpond.com

9419 2507 (h)

9520 7081 (h)

9587 8912 (h)

Presidents Report

Its encouraging to see some of the Municipal Councils doing more to encourage walking in and around Sydneys superb coastal regions in recent times. The Spit to Maniy Walk La opened in 1988, is an oe excellent example of a local ral Council actively promoting Fa Pol walking to the community, and features regularly as

part of shoreline walks on our Walks Program.

For this reason | was keen to join Alan Dohertys walk and represent SBW at Gosford Councils inaugural opening of the first section of the 5 Lands Walk on Saturday 24June. The walk was developed with community organisations and local Aboriginal people, interested in preserving and appreciating the unique heritage of the land and its people, and will eventually stretch from Patonga to Foresters Beach.

Saturday the 24 June was a typical perfect blue, (sunny but chilly), winters day in Sydney. The walk started at MacMasters Beach where we registered and were issued programs and maps for the event by eager Council workers. Then we were off along the sand to the Aboriginal ceremonial opening at Cockrone lagoon, where community members welcomed us with didgeridoo, ceremonial fires and impressive sand sculptures from the dreamtime. All very stirring stuff.

We then continued on to the Copacabana Surf Club and Captain Cook Lookout, where the migrating humpbacks performed on queue to a very appreciative audience. Our path then meandered through remnant coastal heath and old farming land to Winnie Bay where we enjoyed an art show and then walked on up the fire trail to the water tower on Cape Three Points Road.

Further north the Avoca Beach community celebrated its 75“ anniversary with more festivities, while the North Avoca Surf Club provided a historical photographic display of the area on the sand where we had our lunch. It was all very well organised, with Gosford Council contributing considerable resources to ensure the day was a success. The days events concluded with a closing ceremony at The Haven at Terrigal, and included a Rainbow Serpent parade; childrens procession of Aboriginal Totems and a ceremonial dance entitled Whale Dreaming.

Our group agreed the Gosford Council was to be commended on the event which attracted upwards of 100 people (including dogs), and successfully combined cultural links with aboriginal dreaming,

The Sydney Bushwalker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. July 2006

The Sydney Bushwalker

Page 3

contemporary community art and a superb coastal walk. Im looking forward to joining the opening of Section 2 of the walk sometime in the future.

On another note but still with the history - Ill be leading a SBW walk to The Blue Gum Forest on the Spring Walks Program to celebrate the 74” Anniversary of its preservation by the NSW Government. Apart from this being a favorite place in the mountains for many of us, this stand of Blue Gums and the fight to save them, has come to symbolise one of the earliest battles between conservationists and developers. Without the efforts of The Sydney Bush Walkers Club and the Mountain Trails Club of NSW during the depression of 1932, the Blue Gum Forest would have fallen to the axe.

50 come and pay homage, bring something special for the gourmet lunch, even hug a tree maybe……and celebrate this unique forest.

Hoping to walk with you soon.. Jan Roberts

Editors Message

Working on this months Magazine has been smooth sailing due to my new broadband connection. If you wish to send any articles or photos, my new email address is: pamela.campbell@bigpond.com or editor@sbw.org.au

The leader profile for this edition is of Terry Moss who has been with SBW a short while and is already an accomplished leader. Next month, prospective member, Christine Edwards gives an insightful description on what to consider with regards to your health, gear, and getting the most out cf your walks within the first year. My trip to The Castle in the Budawang National Park on the 1/2 July was really enjoyable due to the views and the rainforest near the Monolith Valley.

Regards, Pam Campbell

yO % Pad Letters to the Editor Dear Editor,

May magazine and Rosemary MacDougals reply in the June magazine.

First of all, Frank. The attendance this year was very low. Although there were at least sixteen apologies from regular attendees, the participation was lower than anticipated. Last year we had over forty around the campfire - still low compared to previous years,

Part of the reason for this is no doubt due to the walks programme scheduling competing activities on the same weekend as the reunion. This year no less than two weekend walks and three day walks. Past practice was to restrict the number of walks on the reunion weekend to one of each.

Now to Rosemary who implies that the reunion weekend activities are limited to singing, campfire sketches and a damper competition for the children. These certainly take place and are mostly well received. However she overlooks the offerings of half and full day walks in the area, cycling in Kangaroo Valley, canoeing on the river and childrens games on the river flats - all of which have occupied us in recent years. And what about the socialising? The long discussions over a glass or two, meeting old friends and wombat watching!

Rosemary, the clubs social life is very important and should be supported. You may say vale to the Reunicn and its time to move on but | think the Coolana Reunions stili have much to offer,

People have different tastes and express themselves in varied ways. Singing around the campfire, late into the night, only occurs because people are enjoying themselves and sharing in the bush camaraderie.

Next year is the Clubs 80“ birthday and | know that the Management Committee is planning to make it a great year. As far as the Coolana Reunion goes, lets plan many activities and do not forget the great campfire. .

Bill Holland

CORRECTION:

The authorship of the shuffology article appearing in the June magazine was incorrectly attributed. Roger Treagus is the author, not Jan Mclean (Rogers wife). Some peope may wonder about some of the references in the text as they would nave been Rogers experiences as a walks leader rather then Jans.

The Sydney Bushwalker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. Page 4

The Sydney Bushwalker

July 2006

From The Committee Room

vA report of proceedings at the Management Committee meeting on 7th June 2006.

Inwards Correspondence included letters from the Fred Hollows Foundation thanking us for our donation; from Confederation with details of the insurance policies and informing us that the membership fee cap remains; from Frank Rigby about Coolana tracks; from Don Finch with details of quote for repair of road in Coolana and seeking volunteers, from Patrick James advising the DA for the toilet had been todged; from Shoalhaven Council advising receipt of the DA and from the Catholic Bushwalkers Club inviting us to join them in celebrating their 10,000th walk

Correspondence out included letters to the Premier expressing concern about allowing licensed shooters access into nominated State Forests and to BWA Insurance Officer requesting information about insurance related to the construction of the toilet

President Jan Roberts announced that the 80th Anniversary Sub-committee had been formed with herself, Margaret Carey, Miriam Kirwan, Patrick James as members

The concepts relating to a proposed disability discrimination policy were discussed

The Treasurers Report was accepted and payments approved for; bank fees $42, printing supplies $579, magazine postage $428, magazine stationery $299 Shoalhaven Council $130, social expenses $117, gravel for Coolana road repairs $624

It was resolved that Brian McGrath and Gerald Osman be admitted to full membership

It was noted that Jane Beeby has resigned

The Committee approved the applications for two new prospective members without them attending the New Members night. It was advised that 18 Prospectives came to an evening discussion about what to take on a walk

The Spring Walks Programme is being put together. A Leaders meeting is to be held on 26th July

The Conservation Report led to discussion of hunting in State Forests, the proposed new coal mine in Gardens of Stone NP, sand mining at Newnes and the Emirates proposed development in the Wolgan Valley

The Confederation Delegates advised that the membership cap will not be removed for the moment; the Kosciusko National Park Plan of Management has been released but there are concerns about its enforcement due to lack of NPWS resources. It was resolved that, as soon as practical,

we pay confederation membership renewal and insurance fees

e The Coolana report noted that a working weekend will be held on the last weekend in July to repair the road in readiness for the construction of the toilet

e Under General Business, it was noted that NavShield - run at Nattai - was very successful with about 100 teams and 400 people

e Office bearers were requested to review the descriptions of their positions for inclusion in the proposed Procedures Manual.

New Members Notes by Maurice Smith New Members Secretary

Joining us as Prospective Members in June were: Kerrie lozzi, Dennis Trembath, Timothy Yewdall, Michael Patterson, Davina Milton, Robert Mason. Please make these folks really welcome. | know that at least several of these members have started bush walking with us as | was on a club trip recently with them.

In addition two of our Prespective Members have been accepted as a full members of the club. Please welcome Gerald Osman and Brian McGrath to our ranks.

The new Winter Walks Program has been released and is in your hands. I'd suggest that Prospective Members spend a few minutes going through it and marking those walks that they are interested in walking. Start with the walks with the lower grade values to start with. Remember that it pays to book onto a walk early as some walks fill fast.

On Wednesday 28 June we held a training evening in the club rooms for prospective members where Chris McColl, my co-presenter, and | talked and showed in detail the gear to carry on a weekend watk, what to leave at home, how to do it lightly and safely. We also talked about food, and how to have light weight but tasty nutritious and high energy meals on a bushwalk. We had 18 interested prospective members present and | do believe that they learned heaps.

At the date of writing this column (before the July New Members night where | expect to sign up more new members) we have 114 prospective members, nearly two thirds of that number are of the female variety.

See you on a walk soon Maurice Smith newmembers@sbw.org.au

The Sydney Bushwatker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. July 2006

The Sydney Bushwalker

Page 5 |

Treasurers Report

kA

to end June 2006 Sz homes Month Actual Cash Receipts Members Subscriptions $1,781.00 Prospective Fees $885.00

Investment - Conservation $4.71

Investment - Coolana $14.07 Investment - General $8.72 Other $22.76 Total Receipts $2,716.26 Cash Payments

Printing Production $998.13 Magazine Postage $434.48 Coolana Rates $(253.00) Rent- Club Rooms $960.00 Donations - Conservation $150.00 Administration $266.15 Total Payments $2,555.76 Cash Surplus /(Deficit) $160.50

mountain adventures P=

Silk Road

Wild Asta offer unique and innovative trekking holidays in Central Asia. Trek in the following mountain ranges & view peaks from base camps of former Soviet States & China. Experience famous Samarkand, Osh and Kashgar.

e Peak Lenin

@ Tien Shan Range e Kongur Peak

e Khan Tengri Peak e Fan Mountains

Pamir Mountains K2 (Chinese side) Peak Communism e Kun Lun Range

@ Muztagh Ata

Experience legendary Silk Road Passes, such as the Torugart & Irkeshtam and the ancient cultures of Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan & Western China.

Itineraries allow you to link a number of the treks, to create your own adventure through Central Asia.

Trips include fulf trek service, local quides and experienced Western Leaders.

For brochures and further information call (03) 9672 5372

(ABN 11 005 066 348. Lic Number 30093)

Walks Report

from the Walks Secretary David Trinder

There are some interesting walks coming up in the next few weeks including four extended walks, some weekend trips and many day walks.

David Rostron is leading an extended walk to the Flinders Ranges, Caro Ryan is doing a down hill ski trip to Perisher Blue, lan Wolfe; a cross country ski trip to Kossi and Terry Moss is going to Tasmania to do the Overland track in deep winter on snew shoes.

Of the weekend trips, Terry Moss is taking a group to the Snowy Mountains for a snow shoe walk as practice for his trip to Tasmania. ! am leading a party ona qualifying walk to 100 man cave at Kanangra, Tony Holgate is doing a weekend bike ride in the Bundanoon area then the 6 Foot Track in a Day which occupies the weekend 19 - 20 August. Let me know early if you would like ta do it so | can book accommodation. Bill Holland is leading a weekend walk to the Colo River on the same weekend. There will be two trips to the clubs property at Kangaroo Valley for maintenance and toilet building by some and training for others.

Of the day walks, Tony Crichton is leading several walks which will act as training walks for the 6 foot Track and the K?K in a day. There are also walks to Wollangambe, Parramatta to Thornleigh, Nattai, an easy walk for beginners in the Blue Mountains, and walks in Fairfield, Brooklyn, Bundeena, Shoalhaven River, Leura, Carlons Farm, Royal National Park and Bungonia.

On Wednesday 26 July we are holding a walks leaders night at the club rooms to fill in gaps in the Spring Program and discuss some possible changes to Prospective qualifications. Leaders should come with maps and ideas of interesting walks. We would like to resurrect some of the walks the club has done in the past.

David Trinder dt28@tpg.com.au

FOR SALE

Kathmandu light weight ladies hiking boots Size: 37/38, Good condition, $30 Contact: Karen Carkner 9957 1729

The Sydney Bushwalker: First Edition July (931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. Page 6 The Sydney Bushwalker July 2006

COOLANA REPORT

On the 7” June Don Finch and myself went to Coolana to meet up with Eric Zarella our Landcare officer to discuss the our 3rd Grant from the Southern Rivers Catchment Authority (SRCMA) which is to fund two weeks Conservation Volunteer (CVA) labour to work on the Eastern side of Coolana.

The main problems, at the moment, on the Eastern side is the Wild Tobacco, Madeira Vine, Cape Ivy Vine and one other vine, the name of which escapes me for the moment. We agreed that the CVA team would work on these problems for the two weeks which will go a long way to actually enabling the club to use the Eastern flat for camping, for planting trees/shrubs along the bank of the Kangaroo River as well as the flat, thus improving the water quality and the area environmentally which is what all the grants are about. There is also another problem on the western end with the notorious Noogoora Burr that is a reportable weed (which we did on the 15 March 2006) and if the team has time they will bag all the seeds to prevent further infestations all along the Riparian land. We have signed the agreement and at present are just waiting for the dates from the CVA.

Some of our newer members may not be aware that the Kangaroo River and the Tallowa dam which is on the river is a very important part of the Sydney water (Warragamba Dam) system. When it rains in Kangaroo Valley, which it does more often than in the Warragamba catchment area, Sydney water is permitted to take from the Kangaroo River what water is available to top up Sydneys water supply each day. Our Coolana project is part of the bigger picture and is why we are in partnership with the SRCMA, along with the other owners/lessees of the Riparian land along the river.

We also discussed the purchase of native grasses, the cost of which are part of Grant No. 2. This Grant and discussion is still ongoing.

Eric was so impressed with our progress and how wonderful Coolana looked with all our clearing, tree planting, tracks into the eastern side for easy access for the CVA etc. that he invited Don to speak at the next Landcare dinner to be held later in the year. One of the things that really impressed him was our method of mowing to keep the weeds under control and the consequence of this mowing being a huge reduction each year by mowing prior to seeding, thus removing future generations of noxious weeds. Having been our original Landcare officer Eric can see how much we have progressed since becoming a Landcare group in 2002.

Another piece of information from Eric was that what we all thought was mistletoe on most of our Sandpaper figs is actually a survival mechanism by Sandpaper Figs as they try to reproduce themselves (not very successfully) by sprouting off existing branches and is not a problem. | have tried to find some information to confirm this but havent been able to. Maybe one of the club members may have more on this subject?

For those members who are on email and read the article | wrote for the Short Notice email of the 5 July, this next section is a repeat and is for members who dont receive email

– VERY SPECIAL COOLANA MAINTENANCE WEEKEND –

The maintenance weekend on the programme for the 29 - 30 July organized by Don Finch is very important for all SBW members and their friends who feel privileged to be part of a club that owns a beautiful weekend retreat for all members to use free, love a great camp fire, (promise no sing song, silly sketches etc.) great happy hour and lots of hard work. It will be cold.

Patrick James (Environmental Consultant) after a lot of volunteer hours and hard work has submitted on behalf of SBW, the DA to Shoalhaven Council for our Composting toilet. David Trinder (Architect) has also spent lots of volunteer hours preparing plans for the construction for our long awaited composting toilet.

Also a big thank you to Owen Marks (long standing member) who has generously donated part of the funds required for this project.

The rest of us now need to get involved, as the composting toilet, road maintenance and regeneration work will benefit all of us and there js a lot to be done.

Our first job is to repair one bad part of our road to enable the construction materials to be delivered on site; Don is organizing a road building crew for this purpose. The gravel has been arranged by Don and Patrick.

The Sydney Bushwalker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. July 2006 The Sydney Bushwalker Page 7

The next job is to build the foundations for the toilet prior to the actual construction; Patrick and David are organizing this section.

The third job that we need to do this weekend because it is the right time of the year is to plant 60 trees which is required as part of our latest grant of $4500 from the Southern Rivers Catchment Authority. This sounds very easy but the hard part is the locating of the star pickets (120) and tree surrounds (60) required, plus water carrying to the eastern flat which is where our latest project is happening. Gretel is organizing this section.

As you can see we need a bit of brain power but mainly lots of brawn for this special weekend and the weekend after the 5th and 6th August to complete the projects. This weekend which is also on the programme is being organized by Bill Holland.

if you can help the volunteers, who are already involved in the project, on any of these dates 29 and 30 July or 5 and 6 August and wish to be part of a very important project, involving a very special place, owned by a very unique club please email Don finchros@bigpond.comas we would like to get some idea who will be coming to Coolana so that the best people for the jobs will be in the right team.

Gretel Woodward

NATIONAL TREE DAY Sunday, 30 JULY 2006

- Why not celebrate it at Coolana -

National Tree Day is Australias biggest community tree planting event. Volunteer to assist the Coolana Committee plant 60 trees at the clubs property in the Kangaroo Valley.

Show your interest in caring for the environment by emailing Don Finch: finchros@bigpond.com

Perambulations

… No one else will offer you trips like these

Willis's Walkabouts' first Patagonia trip was in 1990. We've been back

. almost every year since. This year, we are offering two trips, long or short ~ your choice.

Bruce Swain, whose first Patagonia trip with us was in 1995, will lead a 6-8 week beginning at the end of November. Russell Willis, whose first trip to Patagonia was in 1977, will lead a 4-5 week trip beginning in mid to late December. Both speak Spanish. They handle the hassles leaving you free to enjoy the trip. Both trips will include our latest find, the Condor Circuit - no tourists, just some of the most spectacular scenery in South America.

wt interested? A small ad like this has no space for details - , See our website or ask for the trip notes.

www.bushwalkingholidays.com.au

Official Publication of Line Sydney Bush Waikers Inc.

Page 8 The Sydney Bushwalker July 2006

The Midweek Walkers

The Mid-Week Walkers are an informal group of SBW members who have time to spare for mid-week activities, some of which are shown on the Walks Programme and some organised at short notice and advised by monthly newsletter.

Here are brief details of planned activities. More information as leaders and contact phone numbers are shown in the Winter Walks Programme. There are vacancies on each of these activities and you are welcome to join us.

Extended Activities_ (Monday to Friday)

21-25 August Kia Ora Organic Farm at Nana Glen (near Coffs Harbour). Cabin sleeps 7 people with ample room for more. Walks in the rainforest as well as property tours. Total cost for 4 nights approx $50 per head.

11-15 September. Wombeyan Caves. Dormitory style accommodation. Cave inspections and walking.

9 -13 October New Engtand Nat Park Staying at The Residence at Banksia Point. Lots of walking, animal and bird watching in New England and nearby national parks.

Day Walks:

Thursday 13 July: Bicycle Ride

Some very social mid-week bicycle riding. Meadowbank along both banks of the Parramatta River with the length depending on the weather and the enthusiasm of those participating

Tuesday 18-July Bicentennial Coastal Walk Warriewood Beach to Newport. Interesting traverse of the peninsula from Aboriginal relics to heritage Walter Burley Griffin house.

Tues 1 August Western Sydney Region Park Fairfield City Farm to Toongabbie. A scenic walk in Western Sydney.

If you would like to receive our newsletter or join us on an activity please phone me on 9484 6636 or email biltholland@bigpond.com.

CURING A VOLLEY ADDICTION _ si -

A jumble of decaying volleys lie rotting on the laundry: floor. The awful fi id-no longer be avoided. |

have a Dunlop Volley addiction and it is getting very expensive! “

.

The problem comes from the poor design of the Volley Classic shoes, - particularly the honeycomb structure of rubber under the heel. This is penetrated, by stones from betew and crushed bythe weight of heavy packs from above. The result is a rapid destruction. of the heel: sometimes in as Uittle as a single walk (well, a nine day pack walk from Mittagong to Katoomba!).

nt

Help is on hand after a conversation np with Dennis Trembath at Splendour, Rock recently. For fellow addicts, this is what you do: ” 9 * oe 1 ae

With a sharp knife cut, the. fabric inside the shoe above the: het and peel it forward (in one piece if possible). Fill the honeycomb heel using a. gener /purpose silicone, filler, preferably one described as highly flexible. Finally roll back the: fabric: or replate it with-something similar and let. dry.

The result works a trat inereasing. the: life of the: Volleys. considerably. So, if you own shares in Pacific Brands - the makers of Volleys - thn sell: them quickly. t-customer thas decreased his need for their products. A great success despite the strange looks when;stalking about:the success of your silicon implants!

Richard Thompson

The Sydney Bushwatker: First Edition July 1931 Ofticial Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. July 2006 The Sydney Bushwalker Page 9

Oxfam Trailwalker Sydney - August 2006

Oxfam Trailwalker is one of the toughest team challenges in the world. It is an endurance event in which 400 teams of four attempt to complete a 100km trail within 48 hours, through rugged bushland north of Sydney over the last weekend of August.

It raises money for the vital work of Oxfam in developing countries and to date has raised $40million. Oxfam Australia is an independent, not-for-profit, secular, community based aid and development organisation. Their vision is of a fair world in which people control their own lives, their basic rights are achieved and the environment is sustained. .

You may have read Clare Hollands great article in the previous magazine about her Melbourne adventures earlier this year, well | have also put a team together for the Sydney event and would like to invite members of SBW to support the fabulous work of Oxfam by sponsoring my team!

THE BOLD STRUMPETS - TEAM: 398

Heres an example of how a few bucks could change lives:

$5 can pay for veggie seeds to feed a family for one year in Mozambique.

@ $60 can provide a family in Sri Lanka with seeds and tools to grow an organic home garden, providing them with nutritious food.

$120 can provide training and first aid kits for two traditional midwives in Cambodia, giving mothers access to basic treatment and delivery services.

@ A foot massage of a Bold Strumpet could bring a smile to their faces (! Just kidding!) @ Give you a TAX DEDUCTION for donations over $2 and put a smile on your face.

To donate simply go to the secure site at: www.oxfam.org.au/trailwalker click the link to Sydney and the donate now button.

If you do not feel comfortable with donating online, please email me or phone me on 0412 304 071 to make other arrangements.

Caro Ryan

The Sydney Bushwalker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. Page 10 The Sydney Bushwalker July 2006

Terry Moss - Leaders Profile

04; | completed the qualification walks and was a full member in Feb 05. Since then | have been walking as much as | can, mainly to just see whats out there, try and get fitter, but also to try and meet the members of SBW, of which | found there are a lot of you.

started leading walks 6 months ago. So realise am only new to SBW but

a while now and hopefully | will meet up with you all, eventually on the track.

Favourite Areas

1 like to lead walks in a variety of locations. Generally | prefer the Blue Mountains and Kanangra Boyd National Parks but | have a real passion about alpine areas, such as Kosciusko and Namadgi National Parks particularly in winter on snow.

Types of Walks !| lead

views and interesting terrain. While | do not mind rock scrambling, | prefer to keep the Exposure to heights to a minimum. Lately | have been leading walks in the Snowy Mountains on snowshoes, which | really enjoy.

Walking Style

Definitely not a Tiger walker (who can do it the quickest walker) or someone who enjoys monster hill climbs. | prefer a late start of 0830-0900hrs and finish with time to set up camp and enjoy where we have gone to. | prefer to walk at a moderate pace with a number of stops to enjoy the views. | realised everyone walks at different speeds so | tend to lead from the middle to rear so | can keep an eye on the group and adjust the walk accordingly.

Campsite Selection

always preferred, | do not mind cave camping but normally there are none where | like to go.

Memorable Walks

The Western Arthurs traverse, a very challenging walk due to weather conditions but awesome scenery The Overland track in winter on snowshoes, spectacular scenery on a grand scale

Upper Jenolan River, Hellgate Gorge and Hellcat Ridge. My first off track walk with SBW, a amazing gorge which we swam or waded through then up a knife edge ridge line to finish.

Walks Philosophy

There are so many places to see and so little time to see them, | like to see whats out there and | enjoy sharing these places with others.

Terry Moss

The Sydney Bushwatker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. July 2006 The Sydney Bushwalker Page 11

CONSERVATION NOTES Bill Holland

Members will have noted from my earlier comments that authorised licensed hunters are now able to hunt in nominated state forests. These nominated forests now number around 100 and may be further extended. The authorised areas include Yadboro, Barrington Tops, Watagan, Tumut, Wee Jasper and Canabolas.

bushwalkers, bird watchers and other off-track users of these forests, particularly where they adjoin national parks. Warning signs on access roads may be easily missed and declaring forest as hunting areas will encourage irresponsible as well as licensed shooters.

Now, it is up to you, individual members, to write letters to the Premier and State members stating your opposition to hunting in forests because of the risk to personal safety and the danger to wild life. Letters from individuals make a deep impression on politicians and you can add to the weight of public opinion to have these changes reversed.

Address your letters to

The Premier: Maurice Jemma bid Level 40, Governor Macquarie Tower, es wodsae op 1 Farrer Place Sydney NSW 2000 Des Fredo ep unad combat bat ty >

Foregt CONSERVATION NEWS Environment Groups Hit Out At Nationa! Park Plan

The plan that will shape the future of the Kosciuszko National Park for the next 20 years is being criticised for pandering to the tourist industry. The management document released last week outlines the Governments plan for a $250 mitlion long-term upgrade. But the states two major environment groups, the National Parks Association and the Colong Foundation, say they are disappointed by the emphasis on tourism and the plan lacks balance.

The National Parks Associations Executive Director, Andrew Cox, says the alpine reserve is too fragile to cope with increased visitor numbers. The Government hasnt tackled the problem of the growing resorts, he said. We would like to see the overnight accommodation in small towns outside the park such as Jindabyne yet the Government has allowed for continued resort expansion and theme park style activities. Over 10,000 overnight stays are going to be permitted in the park under this plan and the Government has just not done enough. ABC Monday, June 19 2006

Mass Rally against wood Chips

A coalition of nearly 30 environment groups is organising a peaceful mass rally on July 2 at the South East Fibre Exports (SEFE) woodchip mill south of Eden. The protest aims to pressure the state and federal governments to stop the destruction of the south-eastern NSW and East Gippsland native forests. It will also call for an end to native forest woodchipping, which drives the logging industry in south-eastern Australia.

Ninety per cent of wood logged in the Eden area goes to the chip mill for export, mainly to Japan for paper manufacture. The chip mill consumes more than 160 truckloads of native forest logs per day; thats 900,000 tonnes this year, heading for 1 million tonnes annually over the next couple of years. None of this is waste wood, as industry and government would have us believe. The chip mill can only handle whole logs.

Green Left weekly June 06

Vandals Strike At Pigeon House Mountain Car Park

The NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) has expressed outrage over what it described as wanton vandalism in relation to the destruction of visitor facilities at the Pigeon House Mountain visitor car park in Morton National Park. NPWS staff report that vandals have destroyed a visitor information shelter and a toilet at the site. NPWS Area Manager, Neale Watson, said today that he and his staff were disheartened over the incident given the effort being put into the site for the benefit of visitors and the local community. It would appear that those responsible used a four wheel drive vehicle to push the structures over, Mr Watson said Its an outrageous thing to do and wed love to catch those responsible. We estimate theyve probably caused about $10,000 worth of damage. Narooma News 28 June 2006

The Sydney Bushwatker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc.

| Page 12 The Sydney Bushwalker July 2006

The Story of the Great River Walk October 2000 to February 2005

Roger Treagus Part 2 (Wollondilly Station to Yerranderie)

Wollondilly Station sits astride Goodmans Ford and its extroverted and generous owner wanted to give a real country send off for stage 6. So the Friday night of the walk was a full on BBQ with music, meat, loud conversation, meat and lots of liquid refreshments and meat. Our fellow vegetarian bushwalkers exercised a lot of tolerance and grace to the carnivore lobby on that night.

By now the culture of the walk was becoming clear. This was not just a walk down a river. By its nature we had to contact the locals for information and for permission to pass. We had to discuss with them what we were on about. So many times | spent hours in farmers houses listening, not talking. These people sensed we were genuinely interested in the land, in their land, in their experiences, because we were prepared to spend the effort to walk (not drive) through it. And perhaps because of that they told their stories.

And what stories. A family matriarch greeted me with morning tea and told me of their intense struggle over the generations from 1836 to open up and work the land. There were stories of drought (of course), of bushrangers, of a cart track that evolved into the Hume Highway and of tragedies. By 1998 the family had scattered but for one son who worked and knew and loved every paddock. The main southern railway line ran through the property and one day he didnt heed the warnings when he crossed. This grand place now has an uncertain future. There was the magnificent edifice of another homestead in great demand for a film set perfect it seemed for period Australian films. There was an aging Bavarian couple trying to make a go of the run down nudist colony; There was the couple who came to the river because the husband had only a little time left. They led simple but peaceful and social lives on the river. The river environment seemed to work its magic. The husband is in remission.

Then there was Stan, an old man of the bush living a solitary life in his tin shack above the river and surrounded in his yard by what seemed a museum of relics from the industrial revolution, old engines, car bodies, old lathes. And the clobber of blacksmiths past. He had just walked on a nail that had pieced his foot when | saw him. He had used an old tea towel and kitchen paper roll with which to bind his foot. Limping around his verandah during our talk he casually brushed the injury aside saying the nail would work itself out eventually. Shed be Jake. | was back there a few weeks later on another reconnaissance for future stages and | was shocked to see that Stans house had burnt down. It was still smoking and there was no sign of life. | was concerned and rang Stans neighbour at the adjoining Nandi Station. Stan was OK but he was in hospital with burns. Perhaps they would look after his feet there as well. | was sorry | didnt see him again. He tived by the river for half a century. One of the few true bushmen who knew the river like no other. He told me a lot about this country and its history. it was near Christmas when we walked past his ruin on the stage. We left a few Christmas gifts at his property gate as we went by. To Stan, it said, with appreciation - GRW walkers.

Then there was the great Val Liuede and her famous child that she had cared for over many hard years rewarded by its present popularity, the town of Yerranderie, now full of people and activity and connected to the outside world by a long rough road from Oberon. Then there was the bi-polar kid who ran a paintball skirmish operation. He blocked our way seeing us as invaders. His father rescued me and proceeded to talked him around till we got reluctant acceptance but suggested we make haste anyway.

It was that kind of walk, not just through the bush but through peoples lives, generous country people, generous enough to share their experiences and their trust. The stories moved with us as we past through their patch of bush on our path towards those distant bright lights that lit up the horizon at night.

Downstream of Goodmans Ford the river makes a huge turn to the east (Barrallier 295036) at 500 acre flat heading towards the Wangangerry tableland and with the southern edge of the Blue Mountains NP now occupying the left bank. In fact from this bend the world heritage country extends from the river all the way through to the Hunter. It was now August 2001. We walked a stage every 2 months or so and with stage 6 seeing us into the catchment just upstream from Lake Burragorrang we had taken 10 months to reach this country 180 kilometres from the source. With the river now rounding the last bend before curving for its last northerly reach into the lake the gorge finally widened and shallowed. A warm breeze fanned our faces around the campfire on a full moon night on Stage 6. It stuck in my memory as one of the best. The river was bubbling through some small rapids making a constant noise in light that seemed to make the river, the hills, everything a little larger than life. And we were all snug in a grassy bank near a fresh water spring.

The Sydney Businwatker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. July 2006 The Sydney Bushwalker Page 13

Stage 7 was a 3 day affair starting with a train to Mittagong and taxi to Jim Sampsons property on the Wanganderry and then the walk through the slot at Hilltop 478010, down to the river flats past the prominence of Bonnum Pic.

Walking on fire trails we entered the restricted catchment lands near the Jourland property ruins at Nattai 490121. Awonderous panorama opened up, one of the great moments on the entire trip. Stretching before us for 30 kilometres to the north was an expansive treeless plain falling to a vast lake. This magnificant amphitheatre was hemmed in to the east by the impressive Wanganderry Wall, to the north by the Blue Labryinth and Kings Tableland and to the west by the remote Lacys tableland, the Blue Breaks and the Bindook plateau. All of these were visible. It was all on a grand scale. And then there were the animals. Sweeping across this plain were mobs of emu and kangaroo. They were in african like numbers and most trees seemed to have a goanna hanging on them. This was not the usual Australian scene of secretive and seldom seen Australian fauna. The numbers were more than | had ever seen in the wild and it was in your face. It was a lost world kept that way by the Sydney Catchment Authoritys rigid guarding preventing all non official human access and by so doing providing a level of protection to the ecosystem rarely available elsewhere. And so this great parade of never seen wild animals in a great walled plain less than 80km from the GPO. It was the Serenghetti of Sydney.

After having followed the river for a year, we now had our biggest obstacle, the lake. Of necessity we had to make a detour right around the lake to the west and at a respectful distance from it before rejoining the river again because (1) we were not allowed close to the lake and (2) even if we were, no tracks went where we were going.

WE walked into Yerranderie on part of the Sheepwalk trail, met the towns owner the indomitable Val Liuede who kindly showed us around, showed us photos of the times when the mine was working and its run down condition when Val bought it. Val then proudly showed us the town as it is now, lovingly restored and ready for the tourists. Climbing Yerranderie Peak behind the town brought to view the distant Echo Point near Katoomba, the Kanangra Boyd Plateau and the broken country towards Warragamba Dam.

That stage finished at Yerranderie with a Catchment Authority firetruck picking us up and taking us out to Picton via the Lake, a much shorter journey than the road west to Obercn. An interesting point to this road was that as it ascended through the cliff line away from the Lake near Picton, drive on the right road rules applied (the only place in Australia), the reason being safety as slow moving heavy vehicles ascending needed to be visible to downhill traffic. The left lane was always in a cave rendering vehicles invisible for conflicting downhill traffic, especially when trucks needed to drive well out from the wall because of the caves low ceiling. Its just as well this road is strickly private. If it was open to Joe public there would be prangs galore.

Lake Burragorrang is vast and flooded the Burragorrang Valley when Warragamba Dam was built after the second world war. The valley had a small rural community with the only access being a slow windy dirt road over the mountains to Camden. Their community was inundated by the rising waters. They left and dispersed. But they will always be the Burragorrangers and once a year they come together at Yerranderie and once a year the Sydney Catchment Authority usesits fire trucks to ferry them in and back (or allows car convoys) via the very short route in via Picton, hundreds of kilometres less than via Oberon, the normal access road. So once a year they relive their valley and once again marvel at its stunning geography.

When | went to school | learnt of Blaxland, Lawson and Wentworth (always mentioned in that pecking order) who worked out that to cross the Blue Mountains one had to stick to the ridges. That decision sounded inspired. But perhaps it was just a logical step to take after every previous explorer who had followed valleys had drawn a blank. The history book.says that they saw the western plains from Mount Blaxland. They must have been misquoted. All you can see from that hill is the eastern side of the GDR (great dividing range). But good explorers or bad they all left their names (and reputations) on bits of the country. It helped to be both British and in favour with the governor to be revered in the textbooks no matter how badly they may have stuffed up their expedition. But a lone Frenchman and not liked by Patterson and other regimental heavies in the influential NSW Corps was never going to cut it in the colony. Barratlier was this Frenchman and was in fact brilliant. He read the country and he communicated effectively with the aboriginies. tn 1803 no one had a clue how to cross the mountains but Barralier almost did it, in far rougher country and penetrating further west than anyone else a full decade before Blaxland et al did their ridge walk. But unlike the British he didnt get much named after him except of course the Barrallier 1:25000 topo. His is a wonderful story, See the biography on him. Another source is Val Luiede at Yerranderie who has also closely studied the detail of his expeditions by going back to some original material now housed in Paris. (to be continued next month)

The Sydney Bushwatker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. Page 14 The Sydney Bushwalker July 2006

WALKS NOTES - 10 to 19 February 2006 Barry Wallace

There was a house-party at Berrara Beach over the period 6 - 10 February with Bill Holland as leader and 9 attendees. They walked on the beach and in the bush, cycled, paddled, kayaked, read books, participated in a sing-song, barbecues, happy hour(s) and found time to watch animals as well.

lan Wolfe led a couple of day canyon trips out from the camping grounds at Mount Wilson over the weekend of 11, 12 February. A party of 10 was there and they checked out Whungee Wheeney Canyon on the Saturday and Serendipity Canyon on Sunday. All went well except for some (unspecified) injury to the leader. One trusts this was in no way related to the partys view of the proceedings. Chris Miller led a party of 3 ona canyon trip on Saturday 11 February into the lower section of Bell Creek. They encountered a difficult section in the upper Bell that required the use of a handline. The rest of the day went well and they reached the cars at around 1800 hours.

Tony Crichton led a party of 16 on his Saturday, 11 February walk out from Waterfall railway station. The day was delightful; they chanced upon a beautiful swimming hole along the way and even went out to dinner afterwards to round out the day. Jim Callaway was unavailable to lead his Waterfali to Heathcote walk on 12 February so Errol Sheedy returned the favour and led the trip instead. The party of 4 welcomed the chance for a swim at lunch time after ploughing through the fallen trees and branches around the edge of Lake Eckersley on the Woronora River. Also on 12 February, Kathy Gero leading a qualifying walk through The Royal from Otford to Bundeena. The party of 6 travelled well, cooled by a steady Nor-ester and encouraged not to linger by the bluebottles that made swimming less attractive than it might have been. Progress this rapid left plenty of time for refreshment at Bundeena.

The party size for Terry Moss qualifying walk out from Kanangra Walls over the weekend of 18, 19 February is unknown but we do know there were 2 prospectives and, thanks to Terry taking a methodical approach to completing the activity report, we also know there was rock-hopping down Arabanoo Creek some of which involved exposure to heights; off track walking, rock scrambling both uphill and downhill, scrub- bashing, uneven surfaces, creek crossings and swims. There were no incidents or injuries.

Zol Bodlay led a party of undisclosed size on his Saturday, 18 February Bushn Beach trip along Sydneys Northern Beaches from Frenchs Forest to Narabeen Lake in warm sunny weather. The walk went to plan as a leisurely and enjoyable stroll with 3 beautiful swimming spots.

Ron waters the admiral led a fleet of 20 kayaks on Sunday 19 February from the shadows of Spit Bridge to circle lower Middle Harbour in honour of Patrick McNaughts return to the outdoors. The Admirals barge capsized in shallow waters and Maurice and Gail ran into Spit Bridge. The trip finished with a maritime theme, with drinks on the veranda of Middle Harbour yacht club.

WALKING AND WHALE WATCHING

a Bill Holland Peele

These whale watching walks on the cliffs near Kurnell have now become an annual event in the Club, attract reasonable attendances and often very good whale sightings. This year was no exception. Despite having to postpone the scheduled Sunday 11 June walk due to atrocious weather the outing on the following Sunday went ahead with ten participants.

Earlier, the midweek walkers had seen whales performing their tail banging and breaching almost on cue at our lunchtime spot high on the cliffs at Cape Bailey. We hoped that the Sunday walkers would experience a similar treat - we did.

Arriving at the official Whale Viewing Platform (where official counts are collected and reported) we were delighted to see that two whales were putting on a performance for the many tourists gathered there. Walking on, we had other sightings but mainly spouts and movement. At lunchtime and on the return trip we were accompanied by at least two whales blowing and tail banging at intervals.

The weather was delightful, sunny and only a mild wind blowing off the water. When we arrived back at the Platform the official count was 27 for the day indicating that 11 had passed us, or entertained us during the walk. We had something to talk about over coffee back at the caf.

The Sydney Bushwatker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. July 2006

The Sydney Bushwalker

Page 15

LOS CUATRO AMIGOS EN CHILE YPERU

On April Fools Day amiga Susi sets off from Mascot all alone bound for Santiago, Chile, unsure what, or who, awaits her at the other end. Amigos Mark and Jenny have called from the airport the day before, on stand-by and confirmed only as far as Auckland. If they dont make it onto the connecting flight then amiga Susi will be going solo from Santiago to Easter Island and back. Not a prospect she relishes.

Twenty plus hours later, clutching Spanish phrasebook, she disembarks in Santiago to find Claudio waiting

for her with a clapped-out car, a big smile, and best

of all, Mark and Jen. Theyve survived a 45-minute dash at Auckland to collect and re-check their luggage and beat off all rivals for the last two seats on the plane - and taken the rest of the flight to recover!

Now with three of the four assembled, the adventure begins…

After exploring Santiago, a big smoggy city with riverside parks reminiscent of Paris (although the wild-flowing Rio Mapocho makes the Seine look sluggish}, we take the five-hour flight to tiny Easter Island, or Rapa Nui, one of the most isolated places on earth. A welcome lae from Gonzalo, and off to our hostel in Hanga Roa, the only village. The following day taxi-driver Ricardo drops us at Anakena Beach on the eastern side of the island, where we see our first maois, seven of the mysterious, massive statues lined up staring severely ahead. (By 1868 all the maois on the island had been toppled due to internal fighting between native tribes. They must have been VERY angry with each other to have knocked these monsters down after going to the trouble of putting them up in the first place!)

Susi Arnott

We trek to several sites down the eastern side of the island, ending up at Ahu Tongariki, where fifteen restored statues gaze over the denuded landscape towards Rano Raraku, the quarry where their lives began, a fifteen minute walk away. Thor Heyerdahl best describes how it feels to stand in this amazing place:

We were surrounded, as in a hall of mirrors, by enormous faces circling about us, seen from in front, in profile and at every angle . . .We had them above us, beneath us and on both sides … As our eyes gradually became trained to distinguish art from nature, we perceived that the whole mountain was one single swarm of bodies and heads.

We finally drag ourselves away, and end up on an almost deserted road, the sun sinking, and Hanga Roa still an awfully long way away (even for fit SBWs !) so out go the legs (amigas Susi and Jen) and the thumb (amigo Marco) and in no time a white van screeches to a halt, the door flies open and we hear Welcome Aboard!. Rescued by the Chilean Navy!! Safely returned, we toast all sailors with pisco sours.

The following morning amiga Susi makes a quick trip in Pedros taxi to the spectacular volcanic crater Rano Kau and the ruins of Orongo village, surrounded by 360 degrees of water as far as the eye can see. Next time we'll do it as a half-day walk…

Fast forward a week and amiga Marg has joined us. Los cuatro amigos bounce along in the Peruvian bus from Arequipa (the white city, built from volcanic rock) to Colca Canyon. After five hours, through ever steeper mountains and valleys, we reach the Indian village of Cabanaconde. With our merry band of backpackers, we head down, winding 1300 metres into the massive canyon, squeezing past donkeys and riders, to the bottom where our Indian cabins await us. Amiga Susi has food poisoning and falls into primitive bed with a sigh of relief to sleep until morning, which dawns blue and sparkling. Elias our guide shows us the many plants used by the Indians for everything from headache cures to aphrodisiacs, as we amble through mud __ brick villages, past prickly pear,

The Sydney Bushwalker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. Page 16

The Sydney Bushwalker

July 2006

corn, cactus and broad beans, over a brushwood bridge and to the Paradiso Oasis, with warm springs and a pool where we rest before the ascent. This proves challenging, a 1200 metre climb from 2,100 metres to 3.287 metres - rather like several Perrys with half-strength air; many stops (and what views!) later, we make it in a time which has our companions clearly surprised by these silly old farts from Oz!

Election Day, more time in beautiful Arequipa, the midnight (try 3.30 am) bus to Puno, a taxi dash, and here are the cuatro amigos in Bolivia, on the turquoise waters of Lake Titicaca, at 3820 metres bordered by snow-capped mountains. Were heading for the southern end of Isla del Sol, where we puff up the ancient Escalera del Inca and to the top of the nearest hill, gaze past curious sheep, north to lakes and mountains in the distance. We descend past the colourful displays of fabrics and jewellery for sale, the cheerful hostels and tourist accommodation, down the ancient steps and return to our boat.

Back in Peru, though stilt on Lake Titicaca, we visit the reed islands, los isles flottantes, spend two nights with an Indian family on Amantani Island, eating for breakfast, lunch and dinner at least ten of the four thousand varieties of potato found in Peru, then wind up on Taquille Island for tunch the next day. Back to Puno and the train which takes us over impressive mountain passes to Cuzco . . . where the serious trekking begins.

After two excursions into the Sacred Valley, we begin the Inca Trail. At the tail end of the wet season, we feel nervous about the weather, particularly since weve heard tales of pouring rain and endless mud. But for us its picture postcard perfect, our guide Marcello telling us he had not seen the mountains since the previous November! For four days we hike sheer mountain passes dotted with stone ruins, lush forest patches, rushing streams and cascades, and snow-capped mountains all around. Each afternoon we arrive at camp to erected tents and afternoon tea - the joys of a supported trek! When we finally ascend to Machu Picchu (not via the Sun Gate due to a landstide, but on the bus from the valley village of Aguas Calientes), we watch the sun rise over the silent stone ruins, turning them from grey to gold. After numerous photos, we wander with Marcello from the Temple of the Sun, past prison cells, through industrial and residential sectors. Scattered around us, crimson

orchids, begonia, impatiens and daisies and the odd llama, against a backdrop of peaks, bluish in the clear morning light. After a stiff climb up the neighbouring peak of Wuyanu Picchu we enjoy our traditional SBW morning tea looking back over the expanse of Machu Picchu.

Our final trek takes us to the remote mountain region of Ausangate, a dusty six-hour bus ride south east of Cuzco; just we cuatro amigos, plus our guide Fritz (no o!), Wilfredo the cook, porters, and horses in the care of Santiago and Fernando, the donkey men.

From the movie-set frontier town of Tinqui we cross a rushing river in cold morning sunshine and climb (slowly) up through fields of beans, oats, potatoes (surprise!), past mud huts and stone walls and herds of alpacas and llamas tended by Indians dressed in the bright regional clothes, a hang over from seventeenth century Spain and quite impractical for the cold (e.g. sandals!). Local children walk with us along the way, holding our hands, singing and laughing. About midday we reach our first school, out in the middle of the hills, where we hand out books and pencils and a hundred or so small faces light up with beaming smiles. After lunch (outside table set up for us!) we continue through a wide, barren valley fissured by a rushing stream, as cloud envelopes mighty Ausangate Mountain ahead. The rain hits soon after, however clearing by the time we stop at Upis and immerse ourselves into the hot sulphuric springs! Mountain families join us at camp, and we |. delight them by :; taking their photos. and showing them on the digital display.

On day 2 we hit serious altitude, a long traverse up a moonscape, up and over Arapa Pass, at 4,850 m, then down again, doing David Attenborough impersonations as

The Sydney Bushwatker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc.

July 2006

The Sydney Bushwalker

Page 17 |

we meet Peruvian ducks as big as albatrosses and Peruvian vizcachas not unlike wallabies with rabbit ears! We pass the first of three turquoise lakes, glistening in a burst of sunshine which lights the mountain and its glacier behind. After lunch (quick and chilly!) we plod up and up through swirling mist, fighting the lethargy which comes with increasing altitude, till we reach Apuchata Pass at 4,900 m and see our campsite way, way below. Downhill, while tough, is infinitely preferable to uphill at this altitude; once at the bottom we devour popcorn and hot chocolate, then dive into every piece of clothing we own, plus sleeping bags, only emerging for dinner before snuggling in for the night.

The third day weve all been dreading given the previous afternoons weather, but it dawns bright and sunny. As | organize myself in the tent, five pairs of eyes peer in at me - more local children visiting for books and pencils. We head out for Palomani pass, the highest on the circuit at 5,200 m, in strengthening sunshine, through alpine slopes dusted with green, past llamas with beribboned ears (the Peruvian version of branding). We clamber over shale and scree to the top, where we stand and gasp at clear views across Ausangate and Santa Catalina. Amiga Susi soaks up the sun and gazes at blue sky, white snow, black rocks, churned, icy glaciers, and greeny purplish slopes of the valley ahead; while amigos Marco, Jen and Marg scale a ridge to gain 360 degree views of mountains all around.

Lunch in the valley, Ausangate in sunshine behind us, but twenty minutes further on we reach camp and rain sets in - time for tea and popcorn!

Another breakfast, more stationery for local families, and the next morning takes us down the wide Pampa Jutunpata Valley, towards tres picos (Perus three peaks!) shimmering against the blue sky. We turn west into the Rio Qampa Valley, with shelves of snow and ice on the other side, collapsing at intervals as thunderous avalanches. The relentless climb to the Qampa Pass at 5000 metres feels as tough as any weve made so far - no matter how well acclimatized we are, any uphill exhausts! But Fritz pushes us on, nervous about the weather, and with good reason; it turns during lunch (spaghetti a la sleet) and we plod through sago-snow to our penultimate campsite next to the lake Qoma Qocha. An afternoon blizzard almost carries off our tent, and that night the mercury dips to minus 8 degrees!

Once again, morning heralds brilliant sunshine and we admire the translucent, tropical- coloured waters of Qoma Qocha. More children gather for their books and pencils, then we set off past another mountain- ringed lake. Two little girls accompany us all the way down the wide valley, past little clusters mud brick

huts and stone walls, to our last destination, the thermal springs of Pacchanta. We see with regret the half-built tourist hostels and Indian women rushing to sell us their wares - too soon the tentacles of civilisation reach out to suck us in. Children and teachers arrive from the local school - on a Saturday holiday - and we perform our final hand out duty.

On our last day we return to Tinqui, sharing the path with colourful locals heading down to market. | haggle over a blanket, and as | pay, | glimpse Ausangate against the clear sky.

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The Sydney Bushwatker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Inc. | Page 18 The Sydney Bushwalker July 2006 SOCIAL NOTES IS YOUR SUBSCRIPTION OVERDUE?? Hi Everyone, Does the label on your magazine have the message

What joy it was to see the sun after yet another cold wet day yesterday. To see sunny Bondi beach from my bedroom window on a crisp winters morn is like heaven.

The June social, which featured Trevor Kloedens climb of Ama Dablam, was a terrific experience for the 28 people who did not wish to hibernate at home. Everyone was in awe of Trevors abilities with most people happy to let him take on these challenges whilst we come to praise him afterwards.

You should all get this magazine before the 26th July, when there is a leaders night. The aim is to fill in the gaps in the Spring Walks Program and to create new opportunities. Also we will be looking at some now archived walks from the past and try to re- introduce them.

REMINDER that on the weekends of 29/30 July and 5/6 August we have maintenance weekends at Coolana. Enquiries and registration should be made to Don Finch with details on the watks program.

The August social night will feature walking and travelling in China. Since few SBW members have hiked here, this is a great opportunity to see what is possible over there.

Hans Britz from Onda Travel will be hosting this, having been there frequently.

Thats it for now. Catch you either at the club or on a walk.

Kathy

July/August Social Program

26 July New Walks - New Challenges

7pm A night for leaders and other members to review the draft copy of the Spring Walks Program

2 August Committee Meeting 7pm Observers welcome 9 August New Members Night

8pm Introduction to SBW for intending prospective members

16 August Walking & Travelling in China

8pm Hans Britz is a guide/tour leader from Onda Travel - come to see/ hear his presentation

23 August New Members Training Night at 7pm the Clubrooms see page 13 of the Winter Program for more details

SUBS NOW DUE printed on it? If it does, then it means that your current year subscription has not been received by the Treasurer.

If you are certain that you have paid in the last two weeks or so then it is likely that the Treasurer has in fact received your cheque since the label was printed. However, if you have not paid please send a cheque to the Treasurer to ensure that your membership is renewed. Your payment should be accompanied by the subscription form (already sent to you) stating your name and address details.

If you dont renew then the consequences are dire! It will mean no magazine and no Spring Walks Programme.

So send your payment addressed to: The Treasurer

The Sydney Bush Walkers

PO Box 431 Milsons Point

NSW 1565

Frances Holland - Membership Secretary

JOKES

1 was looking out the window of an aeroplane when a parachutist came past the window. He said, Would you like to join me? | said, No, Im safer in here, He said, ] doubt it. Im the pilot.

ak

The nightclub bouncer wouldnt let me into the club without a tie, so | went back to my car and got my jumper leads out of the boot and tied them round my neck. | went back up to the nightclub and he said, Okay, you can come in, but dont start anything.

wk

Halfway through a trial, a man changed his plea to guilty. Why didnt you plead guilty in the first place? asked the judge. ! thought | was innocent, said the man, but that was before | heard the evidence against me.

RERKKEK

The hunchback of Notre Dame arrived home and saw a wok heating up on the stove. Are we having Chinese tonight? he asked. No, love, his wife replied. Im going to iron your shirt.

dele kek dodo

Alittle girl asked her father, Do all fairy stories begin with Once upon a time? No darling, said the father. A lot of them begin with if tm elected.

The Sydney Bushwatker: First Edition July 1931 Official Publication of The Sydney Bush Walkers Ine. Jiscover

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