SBW Magazine & History Project

User Tools

Site Tools

Trace:
197607

Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

Link to this comparison view

Both sides previous revisionPrevious revision
Next revision		Previous revision
197607 [2016/08/31 13:52] – tyreless197607 [2016/09/02 10:21] (current) – tyreless
Line 92: Line 92:
 The interior of the caves are covered with paintings depicting both myth and legend along with real life. Unfortunately, few of the murals have survived intact, and at present the Indian Government is underwriting an ambitious project to copy the cave paintings exactly as they were. For this reason, some of the best caves were closed and we were unable to see them. The interior of the caves are covered with paintings depicting both myth and legend along with real life. Unfortunately, few of the murals have survived intact, and at present the Indian Government is underwriting an ambitious project to copy the cave paintings exactly as they were. For this reason, some of the best caves were closed and we were unable to see them.
  
-We spent the day at Ajanta, returning to Aurangabad that evening. The next morning we took another bus to Ellora. Here there are 34 cave temples built from the 7th to the 13th centuries A.D. We had all heard about Ellora, but were really not prepared for what we saw. Each temple is carved out of what once was a solid mass of rock, without scaffolding, starting at the top and chiseling downwards. The difficulties must have been monumental. Yet, each figure is perfectly proportioned, and in some cases the carvings are as intricate as lace. The huge elephants carved out of rock are standing near three-storied temples.+We spent the day at Ajanta, returning to Aurangabad that evening. The next morning we took another bus to Ellora. Here there are 34 cave temples built from the 7th to the 13th centuries A.D. We had all heard about Ellora, but were really not prepared for what we saw. Each temple is carved out of what once was a solid mass of rock, without scaffolding, starting at the top and chiselling downwards. The difficulties must have been monumental. Yet, each figure is perfectly proportioned, and in some cases the carvings are as intricate as lace. The huge elephants carved out of rock are standing near three-storied temples.
  
 All of us were overwhelmed and spent the day exploring them. All of us were overwhelmed and spent the day exploring them.
Line 175: Line 175:
 In Egypt lies the Everest of River Drinkers. The Nile starts in two places - Uganda and Ethiopia. Both Blue and White Nile pass thousands of towns until they converge at Khartoum. Then through the Sudan, down the cataracts until Egypt is reached. Lake Nasser extends from the border to Luxor where the famous dam is. At Luxor I shall start my story. In Egypt lies the Everest of River Drinkers. The Nile starts in two places - Uganda and Ethiopia. Both Blue and White Nile pass thousands of towns until they converge at Khartoum. Then through the Sudan, down the cataracts until Egypt is reached. Lake Nasser extends from the border to Luxor where the famous dam is. At Luxor I shall start my story.
  
-I was the only passenger of European complexion on the 3rd class section, which happens to be a long punt that is pulled by a boat complete with engine and houses the first class riff-raff. Even though I was first aboard the punt when it arrived all the crew sold spaces to the passengers. This they'd do by spreading out carpets. There was a space about one foot wide with no carpet on it and my sleeping bag was there in 20 seconds, and I lay down immediately. Fait accomplit. I wasn't very popular. The train arrived from Cairo snd the punt was overloaded by the wildest looking mob in history. My section of the punt was then occupied by a family of three camel traders, who would place their own carpets down and await the trip. They were quite remarkable. It turned out that they had sold 1000 camels which they had driven down from the Sudan to Cairo or somewhere. I asked how much camels were worth in Cairo. £100 each it seems. Times 1000 = a small fortune. They were armed and as well had curved knives on their upper arms under their robes. They had no fear from me, so they became quite friendly. I gave them my eyedrops, but the oldest started to drink it. I told him to lay down and I would drop in the liquid. He was very frightened and I think he thought I was going to kill him. I was down on the carpet on my back and he was shouting in Arabic and jumping on my stomach. His sons pulled him off me and I gazed at the ruins passing by and brushed off this incident.+I was the only passenger of European complexion on the 3rd class section, which happens to be a long punt that is pulled by a boat complete with engine and houses the first class riff-raff. Even though I was first aboard the punt when it arrived all the crew sold spaces to the passengers. This they'd do by spreading out carpets. There was a space about one foot wide with no carpet on it and my sleeping bag was there in 20 seconds, and I lay down immediately. Fait accomplit. I wasn't very popular. The train arrived from Cairo and the punt was overloaded by the wildest looking mob in history. My section of the punt was then occupied by a family of three camel traders, who would place their own carpets down and await the trip. They were quite remarkable. It turned out that they had sold 1000 camels which they had driven down from the Sudan to Cairo or somewhere. I asked how much camels were worth in Cairo. £100 each it seems. Times 1000 = a small fortune. They were armed and as well had curved knives on their upper arms under their robes. They had no fear from me, so they became quite friendly. I gave them my eyedrops, but the oldest started to drink it. I told him to lay down and I would drop in the liquid. He was very frightened and I think he thought I was going to kill him. I was down on the carpet on my back and he was shouting in Arabic and jumping on my stomach. His sons pulled him off me and I gazed at the ruins passing by and brushed off this incident.
  
 Abu Simbel ahead, and the boat pulled in and I was the only 3rd class person off. There were two New Zealanders, retired, from 1st class plus four or five Nubian types. Abu Simbel was swarming with Swedish engineers with 2 ft. long syringes that they were injecting into the porous stone that makes up this rock cut temple. (If you cast your mind back, this was the temple that was to have been jacked up to avoid being flooded. It finally was cut up and rebuilt with U.N. help on a cliff above its old site.) Myself and Kiwis wandered around with these Swedes as our guides and we all had a wonderful time. Going out into the sunshine, we were flabbergasted. The boat was gone. No toot, no nothing. There going upstream and rounding the bend was our transport. Abu Simbel ahead, and the boat pulled in and I was the only 3rd class person off. There were two New Zealanders, retired, from 1st class plus four or five Nubian types. Abu Simbel was swarming with Swedish engineers with 2 ft. long syringes that they were injecting into the porous stone that makes up this rock cut temple. (If you cast your mind back, this was the temple that was to have been jacked up to avoid being flooded. It finally was cut up and rebuilt with U.N. help on a cliff above its old site.) Myself and Kiwis wandered around with these Swedes as our guides and we all had a wonderful time. Going out into the sunshine, we were flabbergasted. The boat was gone. No toot, no nothing. There going upstream and rounding the bend was our transport.
Line 191: Line 191:
 Last Xmas with Helen Gray and Frank Taeker we were in beautiful down-town Benares. The Holy Ganges flows through to the Bay of Bengal all the way from Tibet. Early one morning we all walked down to the steps near the tilted submerged temple. Let me describe the surroundings. Behind us were 100 yards of steps climbing up to the base of the palaces. These buildings have a remarkable drainage and sewerage works. Simply it works like this - channel onto the top step and it will cascade down to the river. While we were watching along came a lad with a flat stone under his arm and a parcel under the other. It turned out to be a young goat that may have been killed for a sacrifice that very morning. He tied the stone to the animal and heaved it into the river only 20 ft. or so from where the pilgrims were immersed in their ablutions and prayers. Upstream 100 yards or so the burning ghats were blazing merrily and bones and ash were being plopped into the murky waters. Maybe you think that the ashes purify the water? That would be cancelled out by the ruling that all small-pox victims along with lunatics and babies are thrown in without burning or any preparation at all, apart from prayers. Last Xmas with Helen Gray and Frank Taeker we were in beautiful down-town Benares. The Holy Ganges flows through to the Bay of Bengal all the way from Tibet. Early one morning we all walked down to the steps near the tilted submerged temple. Let me describe the surroundings. Behind us were 100 yards of steps climbing up to the base of the palaces. These buildings have a remarkable drainage and sewerage works. Simply it works like this - channel onto the top step and it will cascade down to the river. While we were watching along came a lad with a flat stone under his arm and a parcel under the other. It turned out to be a young goat that may have been killed for a sacrifice that very morning. He tied the stone to the animal and heaved it into the river only 20 ft. or so from where the pilgrims were immersed in their ablutions and prayers. Upstream 100 yards or so the burning ghats were blazing merrily and bones and ash were being plopped into the murky waters. Maybe you think that the ashes purify the water? That would be cancelled out by the ruling that all small-pox victims along with lunatics and babies are thrown in without burning or any preparation at all, apart from prayers.
  
-We wera assured by these very same devout Hindus that here in Benares a miracle takes place. (Benares is the centre of the Hindu cosmos. When the world will came to an end, Benares will miss out. Good for an investment, eh?) The River Ganges at this very spot where we stood, becomes pure. It has been proven beyond all doubt. The scientists at the Universities; Government analysis has verified it, and so have thousands of ordinary Indians who have been drinking it for centuries or millenia. They take it home in bottles for their loved ones and for their local temples and shrines.+We were assured by these very same devout Hindus that here in Benares a miracle takes place. (Benares is the centre of the Hindu cosmos. When the world will came to an end, Benares will miss out. Good for an investment, eh?) The River Ganges at this very spot where we stood, becomes pure. It has been proven beyond all doubt. The scientists at the Universities; Government analysis has verified it, and so have thousands of ordinary Indians who have been drinking it for centuries or millenia. They take it home in bottles for their loved ones and for their local temples and shrines.
  
 Of course I didn't drink it. Not enough dedication or drive. Certainly my hobby is now in tatters; River Collecting is all over for good. There must be other interesting things to collect! No doubt there are other readers of this magazine who collect strange things, and are bursting to tell. I'm sure the Editor would like to hear from you; this magazine will publish anything. Of course I didn't drink it. Not enough dedication or drive. Certainly my hobby is now in tatters; River Collecting is all over for good. There must be other interesting things to collect! No doubt there are other readers of this magazine who collect strange things, and are bursting to tell. I'm sure the Editor would like to hear from you; this magazine will publish anything.
Line 213: Line 213:
 All in all it was a rather hurried business and we could have done with at least another hour to have really enjoyed the pleasant walking conditions, weather and scenery. All in all it was a rather hurried business and we could have done with at least another hour to have really enjoyed the pleasant walking conditions, weather and scenery.
  
-I was amazed that no one had become lost on the walking part of the trip, quite a lot of people were observed scrambling out of the bush in many different places and some were even caught disapearing along wrong tracks and ridges.+I was amazed that no one had become lost on the walking part of the trip, quite a lot of people were observed scrambling out of the bush in many different places and some were even caught disappearing along wrong tracks and ridges.
  
 An added bonus for the finish of the trip was a visit to the 'Burnett's' cacti establishment where an unbelievable variety of cacti are on display, (from memory, I think there were over 12,000 different varieties on display). Quite a few people indulged in modest purchases of rare and exotic cacti in small square pots. This was a tremendous finish to what I felt had turned out to be a very exciting and pleasant day. An added bonus for the finish of the trip was a visit to the 'Burnett's' cacti establishment where an unbelievable variety of cacti are on display, (from memory, I think there were over 12,000 different varieties on display). Quite a few people indulged in modest purchases of rare and exotic cacti in small square pots. This was a tremendous finish to what I felt had turned out to be a very exciting and pleasant day.
Line 245: Line 245:
 ===H Frame Packs - The Mountaineer De Luxe.=== ===H Frame Packs - The Mountaineer De Luxe.===
  
-this capacious pack can comfortably carry 70 lbs or more. The bag is made from tough lightweight terylene/cotton, proofed fabric with special P.V.C. reinforced base. 20" x 17" x 9" and has proofed nylon extension throat with double draw cord for easy positive closure. The large protective flap has full sized zip pocket of waterproof nylon. It has liberal sized outside pocket. The whole bag is quickly and easily detached from the frame to form a 3' sleeping bag cover for cold, wet conditions. The frame is specially designed for comfortable load carrying with complete nylon web back harness and chrome tanned leather shoulder straps and three inch breeching strap for long hard wear. Weight 6 lbs.+This capacious pack can comfortably carry 70 lbs or more. The bag is made from tough lightweight terylene/cotton, proofed fabric with special P.V.C. reinforced base. 20" x 17" x 9" and has proofed nylon extension throat with double draw cord for easy positive closure. The large protective flap has full sized zip pocket of waterproof nylon. It has liberal sized outside pocket. The whole bag is quickly and easily detached from the frame to form a 3' sleeping bag cover for cold, wet conditions. The frame is specially designed for comfortable load carrying with complete nylon web back harness and chrome tanned leather shoulder straps and three inch breeching strap for long hard wear. Weight 6 lbs.
  
 ===Bunyip rucksack.=== ===Bunyip rucksack.===
Line 330: Line 330:
 ---- ----
  
-A FUNNY THING HAPPENED ON THE WAY TO KALA PATTAR!+=====A funny Thing Happened On The Way To Kala Pattar!===== 
 by Gordon Lee. by Gordon Lee.
-Here I sit in a grotty, noisy, rat-infested, stinking (there's a cesspool outside the window) hotel room contemplating the enormity of the task of writing my first - long overdue - instalment of the journal of The Adventures of Marco Lee and Lin. I have 'decided to call this installment "A 111nny Thing Happened on the Way to Kala Pattar". Climbing Kala Pattar was in a sense a mere nothing when compared to the + 
-hazards, the obstacles, which had to be overcome getting there. +Here I sit in a grotty, noisy, rat-infested, stinking (there's a cesspool outside the window) hotel room contemplating the enormity of the task of writing my first - long overdue - instalment of the journal of The Adventures of Marco Lee and Lin. I have decided to call this installment "A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to Kala Pattar". Climbing Kala Pattar was in a sense a mere nothing when compared to the hazards, the obstacles, which had to be overcome getting there. 
-Bangkok, for example. If you can survive the chaotic traffic + 
-(definitely no place for the unwary) and the pollution, then watch your +Bangkok, for example. If you can survive the chaotic traffic (definitely no place for the unwary) and the pollution, then watch your step, you may be caught from above. Literally millions of martins (I think) roost on the overhead wires at dusk and if __they__ come to rest, their metabolism certainly doesn't. Then there's a chance you may be drowned in a kong (spelt "klong" but when pronounced that way is completely unintelligible to a Thai). You may be hightailing (sorry) longtailing peacefully - if this occupation can be called peaceful. The Thai boatmen have developed the useless habit of revving their motors incessantly. I have digressed - peacefully, when a string of longtails longtailing in the opposite dIrection threaten to swamp your frail craft with their huge bow waves. 
-step, you may be caught from above. Literally millions of martins (I think) roost on the overhead wires at dusk and if Ltelieez come to rest, their metabolism certainly doesn't. Then there's a chance you may be drowned in a kong (speltftklong" but when pronounced that way is completely unintelligible to a Thai). You may be hightailing (sorry) longtailing peacefully - if this occupation can be called peaceful. The Thai boatmen have developed the useless habit of revving their motors incessantly. + 
-I have digressed - peacefully, when a string of longtails longtailing in +Back to the traffic again. Pedestrian crossings in Bangkok are only a means of gathering the citizens in one place so that the motorist can bag one - somewhat like the beaters on a shoot. Someone informed me on good authority that there were 100,000 traffic rules in Bangkok - one for each driver. Still there seems to be few accidents. 
-the opposite dIrection threaten to swamp your frail craft with their huge bow waves. + 
-Baal: to the traffic again. Pedestrian crossings in Bangkok are only a means of gathering the citizens in one place so that the motorist +Language of course has to be coped with wherever you are, and when you get your songs and (psalms) sams (numbers) mixed, then you're in trouble. Or perhaps it's the kais and KAIS chicken and egg depending on pitch - so you order an egg and instead get a confounded chicken. 
-can bag one - somewhat like the beaters on a shoot. Someone informed + 
-me on good authority that there were 100,000 traffic rules in Bangkok - one for each driver. Still there seems to be few accidents. +And when browsing through Thieves Market it could take an immense summoning of word power to prevent being whisked off by the Grrr! Wow!! luscious (nice) young ladies leaning on the parking meters. Lin was no end of assistance. I have since had my arm replaced in its socket. Couldn't even get a look at the Sins of Bangkok - tops off in 10 seconds bottoms off in 15 - two of the local gendarmes wandered in, not without warning. There was a flashing of lights, dressed ladies replaced the undressed, so the tops remained covered and bottoms unrevealled. 
-Language of course has to be coped with wherever you are, and when you get your songs and (psalms) sams (nuMbers) mixed, then you're in trouble. Or perhaps it's the kais and KAIS chicken and egg depending on pitch - so you order an egg and instead get a confounded chicken. + 
-And when brousing through Theives Market it could take an immense +The public transport system works well. No bus in Bangkok is ever full - there is always room for one or more passengers. They hang out of the doors like a human bunch of grapes with hangers-on on the hangers-on. If you survive all this and make the maze of the bus routes work for you, then you can travel anywhere in the city for 75 setung (1,000 = $1). But don't become too blase. Just to confuse you, now and again a bus appears where it shouldn't or doesn't appear where it should. 
-summoning of word power to prevent being whisked off by the Grrrl,. Wow!! + 
-luscious (nice) young ladies leaning on the parking meters. Lin was no end of assistance. I have since had my arm replaced in its socket. Couldn't even get a look at the Sins of Bangkok - tops off in 10 seconds bottoms off in 15 - two of the local gendarmes wandered in, not without warning. There was a flashing of lights, dressed ladies replaced the +Eventually we arrived in Kathmandu. Once again the battle to get to Kala Pattar was mounted. You quickly learned to duck for cover across the Lamjura Pass at 11,580'. There were plenty of people willing to offer you a flight - at a price. Some even offered to let us charter a whole plane. Thinking we were all set to fly out for $U.S.35 we fronted up in the afternoon to confirm. "So sorry, no flight, they flying in rice." Fair enough, rice is more important than bodies. Next time, "Yes we have flight. Be at airport 7.00 a.m." Whee!! we're off. Don't count your chickens, there's many a slip. Airport, usual Kathmandu fog unusually heavy. 11.00 a.m. no plane, no flight, back to K'du. 
-undressed, so the tops remained covered and bottoms unrevealled. + 
-The public transport system works well. No bus in Bangkok is aver full - there is always room for one or more passengers. They hang out +"Yes, we have flight," (we've heard that before). "Be at airport" (we've heard that before). Sorry, I forgot to mention the snow and the weather and - Whee!! we're off at last! Remember the chickens. Single engined, turboprop Pilatus Porter (Swiss), 5 passengers and luggage. A "fair dinkum" air ride, cheek to jowl with the mountains, but all ended in frustration. Clouds blew in just as we approached the strip. So back to K'du. 
-of the doors like a human bunch of grapes with hangers-on on the hangers-on. If you survive all this and make the maze of the bus routes work for you, then you can travel anywhere in the city for 75 setung (1000 = + 
-But don't become too blase. Just to confuse you, now and again a bus appears where it shouldn't or doesn't appear where it should. +"Yes, we have - " - you only half listen, dragging, dull, hopelessly you get out to the airport once more. Gee, our stuff is actually being loaded. Surprise, surprise __we__ are actually being loaded. Get to sit next to the pilot even. Confidence begins to flow back into the system when he gives us the latest on the weather and condition of the Lukla strip. When he informs us that he has had 6,000 flying hours in Nepal, what more could you want? 
-Eventually we arrived in Kathmandu. Once again the battle to get to Kala Patter was mounted. You quickly learned to duck for cover + 
-Page 18 THE SYDNEY BUSHWALKER July, 1976. +But confidence drains to a low ebb when you look out to see a wingtip brushing a dirty great mountain, or you look down as you go over the pass before the strip to see what looks like 10 feet of air under the wheels. And there's the strip looking like a match stick and half as long. Snow covers everything with a glistening, brilliant, pure white eiderdown, ruptured here and there by the houses that poke their way through it. "I'll take a look at the strip to see what sort of job they've done." So he throws (quite literally) the plane into "wheely", buzzes the strip at about 6', corners sharply parallel to strip causing our jaws to jam together and stomachs to bang on the floor. Another turn, straighten up and drop in for a perfect 3 pt. landing - what a pilot! 
-across the Lamjura Pass at 11,580'. There were plenty of people willing to offer you a flight - at a price. Some even offered to let us charter + 
-a whole plane. Thinking we were all set to fly out for a1.8.35 we fronted up in the afternoon to confirm. "So sorry, no flight, they flying in rice." Fair enough, rice is more important than bodies. Next time, "Yes We have flight. Be at airport 7.00 a m." Wheefl we're off. Don't count your chickens, there's many a slip. Airport, usual Kathmandu fog unusually heavy. 11.00 a m. no plane, no flight, back to K'du. +So we step out into this fairyland at 9,000' in brilliant sunshine and blue skies. We were at the starting point of our trek, the object of the visit to Nepal. 
-"Yes, we have flight," (we've heard that before). "Be at airport" + 
-(we've heard that before). Sorry,I forgot to mention the snow and the weather and - Wheefl we're off at last! Remember the chickens. Single engined, turboprop Pilatus Porter (Swiss), 5 passengers and luggage. A "fair, dinkum" air ride, cheek to jowl with the mountains, but all ended +That afternoon we once again joined a young Sherpa we had met and talked to at the airport. He invited us to visit his home, to which we agreed, it being about 1/2 hrs. walk from the strip. So off we set in high spirits. It transpired that Ung Pemba was in higher spirits than we had Suspected. The local chung and rukshi had (to put it mildly) caused a state of inebriation. And don't think the happy drunk Aussie husband who brings home some of his tipsy mates "to see the missus and have a feed" is unique. Here we were in Nepal 1,000's of miles from Australia experiencing much the same thing - with reservations of course, __we__ were sober. Because the language was Nepalese and the people Sherpa made no difference, the reactions were universal. 
-' in frustration. Clouds blew in just as we approached the strip. So back to Kidu. + 
-"Yes, we have - " - you only half listen, dragging; dull, hopelessly you get out to the airport once more. Gee, our stuff'is actually being +However the atmosphere cleared, friendly relations were established when you heard a heavy clearing of throat above you. To be hit by a flying "golly" in any country would be an unpleasant experience - in Kathmandu you could drown as well. Everyone in Kathmandu everyone in Nepal spits, and the streets and pavements (to give them a title) are literally cemented by spittle. Everyone in K'du seems to be afflicted by the dreaded K'du Kof and this is part of the cacophony of early morning when the old city comes to life at daybreak, when the coughers are joined by the ringers (bike bells), hooters (rickshaws), honkers (Toyota cabs) and the talkers. 
-loaded. Surprise, surprise we are actually being loaded. Get to sit next to the pilot even. Confidence begins to flow back into the system when he gives us the latest on the weather and condition of the Lukla strip. When he informs us that he has had 6,000 flying hours in Nepal, what more could you want? + 
-But confidence drains to a low ebb When you look out to see a wingtip brushing a dirty great mountain, or you look down as you go over the pass before the strip to see what looks like 10 feet of air under the +But thank heavens it is peaceful and quiet after the bustle of Bangkok. Things quieten down after 8/9 p.m. and by midnight the space is as still as a grave. Where the myriads of people disappeared to was and has remained a mystery. 
-wheels. And there's the strip looking like a match stick and half as long. Snow covers everything with a glistening, brilliant, pure white + 
-eiderdown, ruptured hero and there by the houses that poke their v%.ay through it. "I'll take a look at the strip to see what sort of job they've done." So he throws (quite literally) the plane into "wheely", buzzes the strip at about 69 corners sharply parallel to strip causing our jaws to jam together and stomachs to bang on the floor. Another turn, straighten up and drop in for a perfect 3 pt. landing - what a +When shopping in K'du it is advisable to wear a "crash hat" or World War II tin hat for the Nepalese have devised a method of stunning intending customers (other than other Nepalese) by installing doorways with low lintels. This is opposed by a high step so that if you don't bite your tongue as knee hits chin, and don't dent your dome, and don't trip then you have successfully entered - but wait, but wait, as with spider and fly you have came into the parlour, and it sometimes can be harder to get out than it was to get in. Each shopkeeper tries to extract the rupees from the tourist's wallet and will keep showing you item after item even though you insist "I'm only looking". 
-pilot! + 
-So we step out into this fairyland at 9,0001 in brilliant sunshine and. blue Skies. We were at the starting point of our trek, the object of the visit to Nepal. +Every day you run the gauntlet of "Hello one rupee"; "You want hash?"; "Sahib, Sahib", (pointing to mouth, other hand out palm up); "You want postcard?"; "You buy Tibetan goods? Many things, come I show you". 
-That afternoon we once again joined a young Sherpa we had met and talked to at the airport. He invited us to visit his home, to which we agreed, it being about -R,hrs. walk from the strip. So off we set in high spirits. It transpired that Ung Pemba was in higher spirits than we had + 
-Suspected. The local chung and rukshi had (to put it mildly) caused a state of inebriation. And don't think the happy drunk Aussie husband +If this is not enough to bend the mind you are faced with the riddle of the maze of the old City street system. These are strung together spiderweb-fashion and from any one of the many "spuares" you can shoot off to any point of the compass. Don't, please don't ask a Nepalese for directions. You will inevitably be confronted by "You go straight". Any ordinary person like myself interprets this as "Keep as near as possible to a straight line". It is equally obvious to a Nepalese that all you have to do is take the first fork left, the second street on the right, turn the next corner left and there you are. I have never yet "gone straight" and found myself at my destination. I'll deal with Nepalese "short cuts" later. 
-who brings home, some of his tipsy mates "to see the missus and have a feed" is unique. Here we were in Nepal 1,000's of miles from Australia experiencing much the same thing - with reservations of course, we were + 
-sober. Because the language was Nepalese and the people Sherpa made +Flying out of Kathmandu to Lukla, or trying to was again fraught with hazards. A word of explanation. Kala Pattar is virtually the end point of the Everest Base Camp Trek to the east of K'du. There are several ways of getting there. Walking is one. You have to walk anyway to cover the final stretch. You could fly to Jiri, Paphlu, Lukla or Songhoche. Each of those in order brought you closer to your objective. The most popular and easiest (?) was to get a flight to Lukla. This put you about 6 days walk from Kala Pattar. 
-no difference, the reactions were universal. + 
-However the atmosphere cleared, friendly relations were established +The decision had. been made to fly in and walk out. Normal walking route is commenced from Lamsangu, some 5/6 hours bus ride from Kathmandu, then 150 miles walk across the grain of the country, rising at one stage and we were fed and watered, plied with hootch - rukshi - almost to the state of our Sherpa friend - given our first taste of Sherpa Tea, prepared in traditional manner in traditional vessel likened unto a crude bilge pump. The brew is an almost undrinkable mixture of some Tibetan stuff (which must come from Tibet), rancid yak butter, tea and salt. Duhd Chiar (milk tea with sugar - when you ask for tea this is what you get) made in the same manner was beaut. 
-Page 19 THE SYDNEY BUSHWALKER July9 1976e + 
-when you heard a heavy clearing of throat above you. To be hit by a +We were asked to stay the night. Having nothing better to do we agreed. Were provided with bedding, a bed and a room. Lovely. But pause, dear reader, to take stock. You are informed on Nep. doorways but not houses. Most houses are two-storied. Animals (yaks, goats, cows, hens) and other things occupy the ground floor, humans the upper. To get from one floor to the other you have to negotiate the most precipitous, narrow staircases imaginable, turn sharply on to an upper landing and in this instance cross an unfamiliar room, the doorway complicated by a built-in seating bench projecting 18" from the wall, fronted by a small table. Remember, I was wearing hikeboots. 
-flying "golly" in any country would be an unpleasant experience - in Kathmandu you could drown as well. Everyone in Kathmandu everyone in Nepal + 
-spits, and the streets and pavements (to give them a title) are literally +Now I am not young anymore and my bladder is the same age, well worn but worn well, but aged. During the night, pitch black inside the house, likewise inside the head, my bladder gives me the message. Not wishing to disappoint anyone, let alone myself, I must of necessity, exit. Get up, put on boots, struggle with unfamiliar door bars, lift leg, duck head, stretch over bench, miss table - quietly, quietly and hang there teetering acrobatically, pointed toe flattering about trying to find something solid on which to lodge. At last you get through the door, cross the room, along the landing - that was easy - miss the sharp right, backtrack slowly, feel for each step and gingerly lower yourself down, all of this accomplished gropingly like a blind man, for such you are. On bottom, heap of unknown substance on left. But this is easy, there's a full moon and light is filtering through chinks in the door. 
-cemented by spitt:e. Everyone in K'du seems to be afflicted by the dreaded Kidu Kof and this is part of the cacophony of early morning when the old city canes to life at daybreak, when the coughers are joined by the ringers (bike bells), hooters (rickshaws), honkers (Toyota cabs) and the talkers. + 
-But thank heavens it is peaceful and quiet after the bustle of Bangkok. +Outside the air is sharp-edged cold, the gems of the heavens picked out on a midnight blue and the shimmering, dancing sheen of the descending moonbeams lights this wonderland with a pearly luminance. Return to bed eventually after more acrobatics, only to find in the morning that our hosts had thoughtfully provided a torch at hand near the bed for just such an emergency, but neglected to inform us. 
-Things quieten down after 8/9 p m0 and by midnight the space is as still + 
-as a grave. Where the myriads of people disappeared to was and has remained a mystery. +Engaging porters can be quite engaging, time consuming, infuriating and costly. Since not even the best of us can tell what the effect of altitude will be it was decided to hire 2 porters, mine at lest till I found out how I was going to perform. Like the "new chums" we were, we hired one for Rs.20 and one for 15 plus food - a big mistake as we were to find out. 
-When shopping in K'du it is advisable to wear a "crash hat" or World War II tin hat for the Nepalese have devised a method of stunning intending olstomers (other than other Nepalese) by installing doorways with low lintels. This is opposed by a high step so that if you don't bite your + 
-tongue as knee hits chin, and don't dent yOur dome, and don't trip then you have successfully entered - but wait, but wait, as with spider and fly you have came into the 1)arlour9 and it sometimes can beharder to get out +We moved off just before dinner for Thumbug, below Namche Bazaar. After about an hour I took my pack for an hour (it was about 16 kg) and found it no trouble, however I saw trouble but didn't recognise it - my porter had a limp. Stomach trouble as well. When you say the mounds, no, hillocks of rice these fellows shovelled down their gullets you realised the foolishness of your agreement. And it wasn't one hillock that disappeared but several. 
-than it was to &et in. Each shopkeeper tries to ex..tract the rupees from the tourist's wallet and will keep showing you item after item even though you insist "I'm only looking". + 
-Every day you run the gauntlet of "Hello one rupee"; "You want hash?"; +The sheer joy of "hitting the track" was almost overwhelming. The poetry of the landscape even at this stage put a spring in your step. There was relief at leaving Kathmandu and getting your teeth into the real meat and this whetted our adventurous appetites - we were off to Kala Pattar! Clear skies, crisp air, light snow underfoot and bright sunshine made the climb to Namche Bazaar (although I took my pack halfway up) a pleasureable experience. The added bonus of a couple of glimpses of Sagaramatha simply reinforced our joi de vivre. 
-"Sahib, Sahib", tpointing to mouth, other hand out palm up); "You want postcard?"; "You buy Tibetan goods? Many things, come I show you". + 
-If this is not enough to bend the mind you are faced with the riddle of the maze of the old City street system. These are strung together spiderweb-fashion and from any one of the many "spuares" you can shoot off to any point of the compass. Don't, please don't ask a Nepalese for directions. You -rill inevitably be confronted by You go straight". Any ordinary person like vyself interprets this as "Keep as near as possible to a straight line". It is equally obvious to a Nepalese that all you have to do is take the first fork left, the second street on the right, turn the next corner left and there you are. I have never yet "gone straight" and found myself at my destination. I'll deal with Nepalese "short cuts" later. +I have never been a cow's best friend, nor would I say I was enamoured of the type of animal these hill people use as beasts of burden. On the contrary I have never been agin 'em, I haven't taken an active part in antibull demonstrations, nor waved flags at such saying "Down with Bull" - I hold the degree B.(0xom).(Bachelor of Oxometry), but notwithstanding these undoubtedly worthy qualities one animal I sidestepped lightly (or so I thought) had the Obvious intention of making a eunuch of me, coming close to doing so. It's hard to find words of soothing English and a tone to match to use to a Sherpa-speaking buffalo when its evil brown eyes are staring at you, set in a head to which is attached two feet of sharp horn, one on each side. 
-Flying out of Kathmandu to Lukla, or trying to was again fraught with hazards. A word of explanation. Kala Pattar is virtually the end point of the Everest Base Camp Trek to the east of Kidu. There are several ways of getting there. Walking is one You have to walk anyway to cover the final stretch. You could fly to Jiri, Paphlp., Lukla or Songhoche. Each of those in order brought you closer to your Objective. The most popular and easiest (?) was to get a flight to Lukla. This put you about 6 days walk from Kala Pat-bar. + 
-The decision had. been made to fly in and walk out. Normal walking route is commenced from Lamsangu, some 5/6 hours bus ride from Kathmandu, then 150 miles walk across the grain of the country, rising at one stage +Two thousand feet to Namche Bazaar soon went underboot, we turned a corner and there it was, the largest Sherpa village, with its rows and rows of fawn brown stone buildings, snow-capped peaks dominating the horizon. There we found traces of the Calnans, they had passed through the checkpost the day before. 
-Page 20. THE S/DNEY BUSHWAIKER July _976. + 
-Mtlemimemommw....  +I paid off my porter - it cost me of course - I had decided to go it alone and decision was taken to press on to Tenghoche. Laughing at altitude the party was wheeling along in fine fashion. But the altitude demon of the Himalayas, the real yeti, bared his teeth. An hour and a half from Teng. I thought I'd exchanged my hikeboots with a deepsea diver, my pack for a bag of corn and my lungs for bellows. Glad was I to see the gate of the monastry and gladder still to throw off my pack and sit down. 
-and we were fed and watered, plied with hootch rukshi - almost to the state of our Sherpa friend - given our first taste of Sherpa Tea', prepared in traditional manner in traditional vessel likened unto a crude bilge pump. The brew is an almost undrinkable mixture of some Tibetan stuff (which must came from Tibet), rancid yak butter, tea and salt. Duhd Chiar (milk tea with sugar - when you ask for tea this is what you get) made in the same manner was beaut. + 
-We were asked to stay the night. Having nothing better to do we agreed. Were provided with bedding, a bed and a room. Lovely. But pause, dear reader, to take stock. Yoe, are informed on Nep, doorways but not houses. Most houses are two-storied. Animals (yaks, goats, cows, hens) and other things occupy the ground floor, humans the upper. To get from one floor to the other you have to negotiate the most precipitous, narrow staircases imaginable, turn sharply on to an upper landing and in this instance cross an unfamilLar room, the doorway complicsted by a built-in seating bench projecting 18" from the wall, fronted by a small table. Remember, I was wearing hikeboots. +That greybearded, billowy, down-jacketed, shadowy figure in the corner was somewhat familiar - "Hello, Gordon!" Sharp handclasp and a thump on the back and we had caught up with the Calnans. We caught up on all the Calnans had done to date, theirs and our trials and tribulations. Heard their plans and noted with regret we would not be able to "catch" them - they would always be at least one day ahead. 
-Now I am not young anymore and my bladder is the same age, well worn but worn well, but aged. During the night, pitch black inside the house, likewise inside the head, my bladder gives me the messaEo. Not wishing to disappoint anyone, let alone myself, I must of necessity, exit. Get + 
-up, put on boots, struggle with unfamiliar, door bars, lift leg, duck head, stretch over bench, miss table - quietly, quietly and hang there tettering acrobatically, pointed toe flattering about trying to find something solid +Washing - simple matter. Washing machine, soap powder, a couple of rinses and hang it out. Eliminate the machine, take the source of the water 400 yds. away - downhill, and add 12" or so of snow, then lower the temperature minus something °C, and you can appreciate part of the dilemma. Having done your washing, try to get it dry - ice evaporates with difficulty. Heavens! Clouds have blown up, get the washing. What you get is not what you expect. Instead of cold, wet, clammy flexible stuff you wonder what the hell you're going to do with these icecold, plywood cut-outs. In sunlight inside the house at Pangboche they refused to thaw. After having been thawed and part dried by the fire, damp tracksuits to go to bed in at -10°C can be uncomfortable!! 
-on which to 10.1E3, At last you get thl ouh the door, cross the room,  +
-along the landing - that was easy - miss the sharp right, backtrack sloaly, feel for each step -sea gingerly lewer yourself down, al of this accom,- +
-plished gropingly like a blind man, for such you are. On bottom, heap +
-of unknown substance on loft. But this is easy, there2s a full moon and light is filtering through chinks in the door. +
-'Outside the air is sharp-edgea co:.d, the gems of the heavens picked out on a midnight blue and the shimaring, dancing sheen of the descending moonbeams lights this wonderland with a pearly luminance. Return to bed eventually after ,core acrobatics, only to flnd in the morning that our hosts had thoaghtful-y provided a torch at hand near the bed for just such an emergency, but neglected to inform us. +
-Engaging porters can be quite engaging, time consuming, infuriating and costly. Since not even the best of us can tell what the effect of altitude will be it was decided to hire 2 porters, mine at lest till I found out how I was going to perform. Like the "new chums" we were, we hired one for,lls.20 and one for 15 plus food - a big mistake as we were to find out. +
-We moved off just before dinner for Thuthbug, below Namche Bazaar. After about an hour I took my pack for an hour (it was 6' at 16 kg) and found it no trouble, however I saw trouble but didnIt recognise it - my porter had a limp. Stomach teNauble as well When you say the mounds, +
-no, hillocks of rice these fellows shovelled down their gullets you +
-realised the Zoolish: -3ss of your agreement. And it' wasntt one hillock +
-that disappeared but several. +
-Page 21, THE SYDNEY BUSHWALKER July, 1976. +
-The sheer joy of "hitting the track" was almost overwhelming. The poetry of the landscape even at this stage put a spring in your step. There was relief at leaving Kathmandu and getting your teeth into the real meat and this whetted our adventurous appetites - we were off to Kala Pattarl Clear skies2 crisp air, light snow underfoot and bright sunshine made the climb to Namche Bazaar (although I took my pack halfway up) a pleasureable experience. The added bonus of a couple of glimpses of Sagaramatha simply reinforced our joi de vivre. +
-I have never been a cow's best friend, nor would I say I was enamoured of the type of animal these hill people use as beasts of burden. On the contrary I have never been agin 'em, I haven't taken an active part in antibull demonstrations, nor waved flags at such saying "Down with Bull" - I hold the degree 13.(0xom).(Batchelor of Oxometry), but notwithstanding these undoubtedly worthy qualities one animal I sidestepped lightly (or so I thought) had the Obvious intention of making a eunuch of me, coming close to doing so. It's hard to find words of soothing English and a tone to match to use to a Sherpa-speaking buffalo when its evil brown eyes are staring at you, sot in a head to which is attached two feet of sharp horn, one on each side. +
-Two thousand feet to Namche Bazaar soon went underboot, we turned a corner and there it rras, the largest Sherpa village, with its rows and rows of fawn brown stone buildings, snow-capped peaks dominating the horizon. There we found traces of the Calnans, they had passed through the checkpost the day before. +
-I paid off my porter - it cost me of course - I had decided to go it alone and decision was taken to press on to Tenghoche. Laughing at altitude the party was wheeling along in fine fashion. But the altitude demon of the Himalayas, the real yeti, bared his teeth. An hour and a half from Tong. I thought I'd exchanged my hikeboots with a deepsea diver, +
-my pack for a bag of corn and my lungs for bellows. Glad was I to see +
-the gate of the monastry and gladder still to throw off my pack and sit down. +
-That greybearded, billowy, down-jacketed, shadowy figure in the corner was somewhat familiar - "Hello, Gordon!" Sharp handclasp and a thump on the baek and we had caught up with the Calnans. We caught up +
-on all the Calrans had done to date, theirs and our trials and tribulations. Heard their plans and noted with regret we would not be able to "catch" them.- they would always be at least one day ahead. +
-Washing - simple matter. Washing machine, soap powder, a couple of +
-rinses and hang it out,. Eliminate the machine, take the source of the water 400 ydsb away - downhill, and add 12" or so 'of snow, then lower the +
-temperature minus something 0, and you can appreciate part of the dileMa. +
-Having done your washing, try to get it dry - ice evaporates with difficulty. Heavens! Clouds have blown up, get the washing, What you get is not +
-what you expect. Instead of cold, wet, clammy flexible stuff you wonder +
-what the hell you're going to do with these icecold, plywood cut-outs. In sunlight inside the house at Pangboche they refused to thaw. After having been thawed and part dried by the fire, damp tracksuits to go to bed in at -10C can be uncomfortable!!+
 (To be continued) (To be continued)
-* *.* * * * * + 
-Page 22. THE SYDNEY BUSHWALKER July 1976. +---- 
-Dinner before the next General Meeting will be at the STONED CROW in Willoughby Road Crows Nest. Meet there at 6.00 p m. Licenced Australian style food + 
-WEDNESDAY AUGUST 11TH. ALL WELCOME +====S.B.W. Epicurians.==== 
-Suggestions needed for CHEAP and INTERESTING places to eat + 
-********** +Dinner before the next General Meeting will be at the Stoned Crow in Willoughby Road Crows Nest. Meet there at 6.00 p.m. Licenced - Australian style food. 
-'J\J + 
-17- +Wednesday August 11th. All welcome. 
-d (LT + 
-o ci +Suggestions needed for cheap and interesting places to eat. 
-The next Coolana working bee will eld on :13e + 
-7th.-8th. August. Remember, many hands make light +---- 
-work. And you can recover the following Wednesday + 
-at the Stoned Crow. For details contact George Gray telephone 86-6263 +====Working Bee.==== 
-********** + 
-ta \I-C-1\ '71" \ , +The next Coolana working bee will held on 7th.-8th. August. Remember, many hands make light work. And you can recover the following Wednesday at the Stoned Crow. For details contact George Gray - telephone 86-6263. 
-)I ) 0 ) ("---T-1 I I,/ + 
---r\--- ---f.+---- 
 + 
 +====Wanted.==== 
 Barry Tarver is interested in purchasing the following items second hand: Barry Tarver is interested in purchasing the following items second hand:
-1 two man tent 
-1 Child's sleeping bag 
-Anythino to offer? If so contact Barry Tarver 
-at 6/30 Cleland Road Artarmon, 2054. 
-********** 
-dr(F-Th s 
-If you haven't paid your current year's subs, the Treasurer is waiting with pen poised to start 
-crossing off names. Act now! Send him something to cheer him up. 
-Member 
-Married Couple Student 
-NonActive Member 
-8.50 
-$10.50 
-$5.00 
-$1.50 
-Magazine (if not a full member) $4.00 
  
 +1 two man tent.
 +
 +1 child's sleeping bag.
 +
 +Anything to offer? If so contact Barry Tarver at 6/30 Cleland Road Artarmon, 2064.
 +
 +----
 +
 +====Subs.====
 +
 +If you haven't paid your current year's subs, the Treasurer is waiting with pen poised to start crossing off names. Act now! Send him something to cheer him up.
 +
 +|Member|$8.50|
 +|Married Couple|$10.50|
 +|Student|$5.00|
 +|Non-Active Member|$1.50|
 +|Magazine (if not a full member)|$4.00|
 +
 +----
197607.1472615577.txt.gz · Last modified: 2016/08/31 13:52 by tyreless
Donate Powered by PHP Valid HTML5 Valid CSS Driven by DokuWiki