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198609 [2016/03/14 15:59] – [Survival in a Blizzard] kennettj198609 [2016/03/15 07:12] (current) – [Central Australia] kennettj
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 My chance finally came when I was recently invited to join a group of ten bushwalkers from the S.B.W. to go on a ten day walk into the Macdonnell Ranges just west of 'The Alice'. I accepted with alacrity, happy at last to be going to see 'the real Australia'. My chance finally came when I was recently invited to join a group of ten bushwalkers from the S.B.W. to go on a ten day walk into the Macdonnell Ranges just west of 'The Alice'. I accepted with alacrity, happy at last to be going to see 'the real Australia'.
  
-To most Australians, and many visitors from overseas, the Centre means one thing - The Rock. Ayers Rock, or Uluru in the native tongue, rises from a vast flat plain some four hundred kilometres south-west of Alice Springs. A splendid new hotel some twenty kilometres back from its base has been built for the ever-increasing number of visitors that want to see this fascinating geological gem. The Rock is in fact anomalous, most of the land surrounding Alice Springs is covered with mountain ranges, a fact which when discovered surprises many people, visitors and natives alike. The flight to Alice Springs is interesting, especially if you have a window seat, and can watch the green mountains of the coast give way to stony treeless desert which suddenly ends as you near Alice. The first impression of the country from the tarmac is one of greeness, albeit quite arid.+To most Australians, and many visitors from overseas, the Centre means one thing - The Rock. Ayers Rock, or Uluru in the native tongue, rises from a vast flat plain some four hundred kilometres south-west of Alice Springs. A splendid new hotel some twenty kilometres back from its base has been built for the ever-increasing number of visitors that want to see this fascinating geological gem. The Rock is in fact anomalous, most of the land surrounding Alice Springs is covered with mountain ranges, a fact which when discovered surprises many people, visitors and natives alike. The flight to Alice Springs is interesting, especially if you have a window seat, and can watch the green mountains of the coast give way to stony treeless desert which suddenly ends as you near Alice. The first impression of the country from the tarmac is one of greenness, albeit quite arid.
  
-**Day 1.** A bus met us there and drove us some seventy kilometres west along Namatjira Drive. We were let out in the cool June air in the middle of nowhere, just in the 'mulga' as Bob, one of my fellow walkers, kept saying. To the north we could see the ranges. The first, the Heavitree Range, is not very interesting as it is made of a single ridge running east-west, like a great fence, arcing across some two hundred kilometres of country. Nothing mun to walk in as it is only one row thick, no side canyons, no mystery. The next range, the Chewings Range, is the interesting one, the jewel, with several parallel ridges, twists, turns, gorges, canyons and mystery galore.+**Day 1.** A bus met us there and drove us some seventy kilometres west along Namatjira Drive. We were let out in the cool June air in the middle of nowhere, just in the 'mulga' as Bob, one of my fellow walkers, kept saying. To the north we could see the ranges. The first, the Heavitree Range, is not very interesting as it is made of a single ridge running east-west, like a great fence, arcing across some two hundred kilometres of country. Nothing much to walk in as it is only one row thick, no side canyons, no mystery. The next range, the Chewings Range, is the interesting one, the jewel, with several parallel ridges, twists, turns, gorges, canyons and mystery galore.
  
 We set off. An hour or so later we crossed a little gap in the Heavitree Range and out into the dusty, flat valley between it and the Chewings Range. Well, not so flat, up close at least, as we crossed little dry rivulets and badly eroded water courses to reach the dry river bed of the Hugh River. Just before we camped we could see in the distance the cliffs of the Hugh Gorge, our destination tomorrow. We set off. An hour or so later we crossed a little gap in the Heavitree Range and out into the dusty, flat valley between it and the Chewings Range. Well, not so flat, up close at least, as we crossed little dry rivulets and badly eroded water courses to reach the dry river bed of the Hugh River. Just before we camped we could see in the distance the cliffs of the Hugh Gorge, our destination tomorrow.
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 So we made the first of many riverbed camps. No sign of water and with the cloudless sky, not much chance of a flash flood, either! Soft sand to sleep on, and a mild night as we ate our first dinner, a real treat, half a stuffed chicken, carried all the way from Sydney and cooked by Spiro, who so endeared himself to the party that Shirley declared, later on, when his indispensibility was apparent, "Spiro, I will have to take you home with me at the end of the trip!" All the other dinners were to be dehydrated, somehow never quite equal to the stuffed chicken, but don't take that as a complaint, we all ate well. One of the many wonders of walking in these mountains is the ease of camp, crisp dry cloudless nights to sit around the campfire and cook  We were all puzzled by a glowing green light seen through the trees to the west of camp, but more of that later. Then the stars! My father once told me that the ancient Greeks claimed to have been able to read by the stars, now I almost believe it. At first I kept feeling that the moon was out all the time, but it wasn't. So we made the first of many riverbed camps. No sign of water and with the cloudless sky, not much chance of a flash flood, either! Soft sand to sleep on, and a mild night as we ate our first dinner, a real treat, half a stuffed chicken, carried all the way from Sydney and cooked by Spiro, who so endeared himself to the party that Shirley declared, later on, when his indispensibility was apparent, "Spiro, I will have to take you home with me at the end of the trip!" All the other dinners were to be dehydrated, somehow never quite equal to the stuffed chicken, but don't take that as a complaint, we all ate well. One of the many wonders of walking in these mountains is the ease of camp, crisp dry cloudless nights to sit around the campfire and cook  We were all puzzled by a glowing green light seen through the trees to the west of camp, but more of that later. Then the stars! My father once told me that the ancient Greeks claimed to have been able to read by the stars, now I almost believe it. At first I kept feeling that the moon was out all the time, but it wasn't.
  
-**Day 2**. Morning was as nice as you could wish. We had been warned of the possibility of frost, but it was not to be this year - the nights were balmy, mild and comfortable. We packed our too heavy packs (mine was twenty plus kgs) and headed for Hugh Gorge, whose red cliffs beckoned us as soon as we topped the first rise behind camp. We were carrying a little water that we had carried in from 'civilization', but we had to find water each day, or we would soon be trudging back south again. The country was +**Day 2**. Morning was as nice as you could wish. We had been warned of the possibility of frost, but it was not to be this year - the nights were balmy, mild and comfortable. We packed our too heavy packs (mine was twenty plus kgs) and headed for Hugh Gorge, whose red cliffs beckoned us as soon as we topped the first rise behind camp. We were carrying a little water that we had carried in from 'civilization', but we had to find water each day, or we would soon be trudging back south again. The country was dry, very dry; it virtually had not rained since the visit the year before!
-dry, very dry; it virtually had not rained since the visit the year before!+
  
-What a desiccated country we crossed to reach the mouth of that Gorge, it almost made you want to turn around and leave. Water - the thought of it was always on my mind. We saw tire tracks here and there as four-wheel-drive vehicles can easily get around in this country. Then we reached the Gorge, +What a desiccated country we crossed to reach the mouth of that Gorge, it almost made you want to turn around and leave. Water - the thought of it was always on my mind. We saw tire tracks here and there as four-wheel-drive vehicles can easily get around in this country. Then we reached the Gorge, the trees got bigger and things looked much nicer. Some hours later, after some easy walking, we found our first water - I took a photograph of it, poor pathetic little pool though it was. I noticed others did the same. We had seven cameras on the trip and they were actively used as the country is photogenic - the light, the rocks, the red, the Ghost Gums, the white - all really quite irresistable.
-the trees got bigger and things looked much nicer. Some hours later, after +
-some easy walking, we found our first water - I took a photograph of it, poor +
-pathetic little pool though it was. I noticed others did the same. We had seven cameras on the trip and they were actively used as the country is photogenic - the light, the rocks, the red, the Ghost Gums, the white - all really quite irresistable.+
  
-We pushed on up the Canyon, still quite open, and saw a little more water, then found a place to camp on a shelf under some fine massive Red River Gums. The party had actually used this site the year before, but then is was next to a big pool of water - not now, it was bone dry. Still, there +We pushed on up the Canyon, still quite open, and saw a little more water, then found a place to camp on a shelf under some fine massive Red River Gums. The party had actually used this site the year before, but then is was next to a big pool of water - not now, it was bone dry. Still, there was water just below, so we stopped and spent the rest of the afternoon on a day walk up the canyon which ran away to the west just opposite the camp.
-was water just below, so we stopped and spent the rest of the afternoon on a day walk up the canyon which ran away to the west just opposite the camp.+
  
 We gathered day packs and put up our lunches, and I wished I had brought a good day pack, because we were to go on many day walks in the ensuing days. The side creek was larger than it seemed at first appearance - its branches were quite large and complicated on their own. We found a good source of water just a few minutes up this creek, better than what was in Hugh Gorge itself, and found the first of several dead Wedgetail Eagles. The wealth of plants in this environment has to be seen to be believed. We explored the first side canyon and found a waterfall, without the water of course, but impressive none the less. Heather made the best approach and sidled around the ridge while the rest of us approached the bottom and contemplated a direct attack which proved impossible. Soon she was on top. Heather stood some twenty metres above us and reported that the top canyon was also dry. Water was vital, we had to have it to live and continue the walk, so we retreated to the creek and lunch. It was strange but lovely weather, We gathered day packs and put up our lunches, and I wished I had brought a good day pack, because we were to go on many day walks in the ensuing days. The side creek was larger than it seemed at first appearance - its branches were quite large and complicated on their own. We found a good source of water just a few minutes up this creek, better than what was in Hugh Gorge itself, and found the first of several dead Wedgetail Eagles. The wealth of plants in this environment has to be seen to be believed. We explored the first side canyon and found a waterfall, without the water of course, but impressive none the less. Heather made the best approach and sidled around the ridge while the rest of us approached the bottom and contemplated a direct attack which proved impossible. Soon she was on top. Heather stood some twenty metres above us and reported that the top canyon was also dry. Water was vital, we had to have it to live and continue the walk, so we retreated to the creek and lunch. It was strange but lovely weather,
 warm while walking but cool in the shade. We nibbled and had water from our wine skins - who would have thought the bags from the inside of wine casks would take over amongst walkers as water bags? warm while walking but cool in the shade. We nibbled and had water from our wine skins - who would have thought the bags from the inside of wine casks would take over amongst walkers as water bags?
  
-The second canyon we entered was more fruitful. We went up and found signs of animal trails and shortly after found a lovely pool of water at the foot of a waterfall! Actually some of the group had gone ahead and the rest sat to have a rest from climbing over the rocks, when we heard a Cooee, and I went forward to investigate. Soon I yelled for the others. In this dry wilderness water was the most beautiful sight, clean potable water. We found a way around the pool, a beautifully intricate and sculpted canyon, but dry above. We decided to follow this canyon to the ridge tops and we did. The vegetation changed to small gums, then to pure spinifex, and eventually you reach a saddle asd you are on the ridge tops.+The second canyon we entered was more fruitful. We went up and found signs of animal trails and shortly after found a lovely pool of water at the foot of a waterfall! Actually some of the group had gone ahead and the rest sat to have a rest from climbing over the rocks, when we heard a Cooee, and I went forward to investigate. Soon I yelled for the others. In this dry wilderness water was the most beautiful sight, clean potable water. We found a way around the pool, a beautifully intricate and sculpted canyon, but dry above. We decided to follow this canyon to the ridge tops and we did. The vegetation changed to small gums, then to pure spinifex, and eventually you reach a saddle and you are on the ridge tops. 
 Spinifex is a grass that grows with protection in mind. It grows in clumps, from a fifth of a metre to a full metre in diameter and height. Usually there is room to walk between the clumps and when they are small it is easy to step over them but when they are big and growing close together it is so difficult. The reason is they are covered with needle-sharp thorns. Woe to those who fall on them with bare hands! On a steep slope with slippery underfoot it is almost impossible to avoid some intimate contact with spinifex!! We all had the tips of spinifex buried in our hands, knees, feet and even backsides after a few days! Campfire routine always involved needles, tweezers and torch-light operations. The guide books to Central Australia say that 'spinifex is a grass' yet in a certain sense it dominates the day to day lives of walkers! It's more than just a grass, it's a menace, grows everywhere, and despite its pain and difficulty, looks beautiful and lawn like from a distance. Spinifex is a grass that grows with protection in mind. It grows in clumps, from a fifth of a metre to a full metre in diameter and height. Usually there is room to walk between the clumps and when they are small it is easy to step over them but when they are big and growing close together it is so difficult. The reason is they are covered with needle-sharp thorns. Woe to those who fall on them with bare hands! On a steep slope with slippery underfoot it is almost impossible to avoid some intimate contact with spinifex!! We all had the tips of spinifex buried in our hands, knees, feet and even backsides after a few days! Campfire routine always involved needles, tweezers and torch-light operations. The guide books to Central Australia say that 'spinifex is a grass' yet in a certain sense it dominates the day to day lives of walkers! It's more than just a grass, it's a menace, grows everywhere, and despite its pain and difficulty, looks beautiful and lawn like from a distance.
  
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 First we all walked up to see the actual Gorge, a kilometre or two upstream. There was some hope of having a swim and a wash, but in the event the water was so cold that few of us availed ourselves of the opportunity - it was more comfortable to be dirty! The Gorge, one of the largest in the Macdonnells, was impressive. The large pools, only passable by a long swim, were contained by mighty rock walls, not very colourful in the shade, but so big, and with such a profusion of plants, macrazamia palms, river and ghost gums, a veritable garden in the wilderness. We retreated to camp, the washers to the sunshine to warm up, and we made preparations for an afternoon walk. First we all walked up to see the actual Gorge, a kilometre or two upstream. There was some hope of having a swim and a wash, but in the event the water was so cold that few of us availed ourselves of the opportunity - it was more comfortable to be dirty! The Gorge, one of the largest in the Macdonnells, was impressive. The large pools, only passable by a long swim, were contained by mighty rock walls, not very colourful in the shade, but so big, and with such a profusion of plants, macrazamia palms, river and ghost gums, a veritable garden in the wilderness. We retreated to camp, the washers to the sunshine to warm up, and we made preparations for an afternoon walk.
  
-The party divided. A few remained in camp while some went downstream and up a side canyon to the west. With the leader's permission I went up the ridge next to their side canyon, with the thought of climbing to the head of the amphitheatre. The foot of the ridge was not far from camp,.a hundred metres at the most, and soon I was on my own, ascending over delightful rock toward the distant skyline. The rock is incredible; everywhere it looks fractured and shattered, yet when you take hand and footholds nothing, absolutely nothing, was loose! It must be the age.+The party divided. A few remained in camp while some went downstream and up a side canyon to the west. With the leader's permission I went up the ridge next to their side canyon, with the thought of climbing to the head of the amphitheatre. The foot of the ridge was not far from camp,a hundred metres at the most, and soon I was on my own, ascending over delightful rock toward the distant skyline. The rock is incredible; everywhere it looks fractured and shattered, yet when you take hand and footholds nothing, absolutely nothing, was loose! It must be the age.
  
 The rock is so old that it has jiggled, settled, vibrated and shaken into stable positions. Cracks, splits and gaps everywhere but at the same time firm footing. It never ceased to amaze me. My rock ran out into spinifex, and I cursed as I crossed this patch to yet another rock ridge. At this point, in plain view of camp, I could just make out people at this distance. I realized that just to the south was a hanging valley. It was in fact the upper end of the canyon that the rest of the party had decided to explore. They would be stopped by a fifty metre cliff, which was now above, and would head back to camp, but I descended from my ridge into this beautiful little level watercourse. I decided to follow it to its head. Beautiful little cypress pines, up this tiny sky high valley I proceeded. Soon it became a canyon, narrowed, solid sculpted red rock, and sure enough water! Moss, wetness, only enough for a cupful, but how good it tasted. This was probably the highest water found on the entire trip. The rock is so old that it has jiggled, settled, vibrated and shaken into stable positions. Cracks, splits and gaps everywhere but at the same time firm footing. It never ceased to amaze me. My rock ran out into spinifex, and I cursed as I crossed this patch to yet another rock ridge. At this point, in plain view of camp, I could just make out people at this distance. I realized that just to the south was a hanging valley. It was in fact the upper end of the canyon that the rest of the party had decided to explore. They would be stopped by a fifty metre cliff, which was now above, and would head back to camp, but I descended from my ridge into this beautiful little level watercourse. I decided to follow it to its head. Beautiful little cypress pines, up this tiny sky high valley I proceeded. Soon it became a canyon, narrowed, solid sculpted red rock, and sure enough water! Moss, wetness, only enough for a cupful, but how good it tasted. This was probably the highest water found on the entire trip.
198609.txt · Last modified: 2016/03/15 07:12 by kennettj
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