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197009 [2016/03/13 09:39]
vievems
197009 [2016/03/13 09:52] (current)
vievems
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 Julianhaab, Aug. 2/1970. Julianhaab, Aug. 2/1970.
  
-Much has been happening of late, tho' I must confess-nought quite as eventful as being stuck in the pack-ice, Left Faeringhavn on 21st July, the pack very broken up, and motored through with no difficulty and then, usually against head winds, or worse, no winds, sailed parallel to the coast about 100 miles out-bound, of course, for Julienhaab, which I'm told has a summer population of 3,000 people. So we're expecting quite a '​civilised town, especially it is largely the administrative centre for the whole land.+Much has been happening of late, tho' I must confess-nought quite as eventful as being stuck in the pack-ice, Left Faeringhavn on 21st July, the pack very broken up, and motored through with no difficulty and then, usually against head winds, or worse, no winds, sailed parallel to the coast about 100 miles out-bound, of course, for Julianhaab, which I'm told has a summer population of 3,000 people. So we're expecting quite a '​civilised town, especially it is largely the administrative centre for the whole land.
  
 After about 8 days we were able to zig, zag and zog between isolated and erratic rafts of ice, usually only a mile or so wide, but perhaps 50 or more in length, until after four very foggy and ice-dodging days, at about 8 p.m., the mist cleared a little and beyond! huge mountains and mighty fjords. Quite a revelation! ​ After about 8 days we were able to zig, zag and zog between isolated and erratic rafts of ice, usually only a mile or so wide, but perhaps 50 or more in length, until after four very foggy and ice-dodging days, at about 8 p.m., the mist cleared a little and beyond! huge mountains and mighty fjords. Quite a revelation! ​
  
  
-With no sun shots for the sextant in four days and with all the dodging, the skipper'​s navigation was spot-on; we were fair in the middle of the entrance to the inland fjord route to Julienhaab.  Not a bad effort, eh?+With no sun shots for the sextant in four days and with all the dodging, the skipper'​s navigation was spot-on; we were fair in the middle of the entrance to the inland fjord route to Julianhaab.  Not a bad effort, eh?
 Rather a tiring time for the skipper (fog is very beautiful but not much help when bergs loom up instanta 30 yards away). So we gave him his 4 hour anchor watch off that night, and he woke double refreshed to lead the sally on once again. Rather a tiring time for the skipper (fog is very beautiful but not much help when bergs loom up instanta 30 yards away). So we gave him his 4 hour anchor watch off that night, and he woke double refreshed to lead the sally on once again.
  
 Last night, on my anchor watch 12-3 a.m. I saw the first appearance this submer of the Aurora Borealis! A curtain of white light lancing and leaping, to '​hang'​ momentarily and then, mass into another lance and beam away to pause, flutter and disappear. While it '​performs'​ one is aware of the silence. Quite uncanny. I'd read of it (i.e. being able to see, feel and hear the silence whilst the lights play) in one of my books of the '​30-'​33 Watkin'​s expedition and it was exactly so. Very strange, and of course enormously magnificent. Last night, on my anchor watch 12-3 a.m. I saw the first appearance this submer of the Aurora Borealis! A curtain of white light lancing and leaping, to '​hang'​ momentarily and then, mass into another lance and beam away to pause, flutter and disappear. While it '​performs'​ one is aware of the silence. Quite uncanny. I'd read of it (i.e. being able to see, feel and hear the silence whilst the lights play) in one of my books of the '​30-'​33 Watkin'​s expedition and it was exactly so. Very strange, and of course enormously magnificent.
  
-Called in at Ivigtut, a naval base and cryolite mine, to take on fuel and break and received another grand welcome from the Danes. ​ Actually it's more tiring ashore than at sea! 4 a.m. and 3 a.m. with two parties on the nights we were there. Duckling, Roast Beef, Black Bread, Mushrooms, Sausage, 10,000,000 spreads and dips, herring, etc., and the inevitable couple of gallons of Carlsberg Pilsner. My word they did us proud, and their showers were so good I shaved my beard and changed my underwear too! (First time this trip, of course). In between feasts we were expected to go to lunch and dinner with them as well, but wisely decided against it. I went for a huge walk away over the hills and climbed a nice little snowy peak to have a good gawk at the ice-caps. Took along the ice axe, etc. and had a marvellous time kicking steps, glissading, etc. Ply boots very comfortable and with the immediate prospect of 5 weeks cliMbing ​as soon as we leave Julianhaab all is very right with the world. +Called in at Ivigtut, a naval base and cryolite mine, to take on fuel and break and received another grand welcome from the Danes. ​ Actually it's more tiring ashore than at sea! 4 a.m. and 3 a.m. with two parties on the nights we were there. Duckling, Roast Beef, Black Bread, Mushrooms, Sausage, 10,000,000 spreads and dips, herring, etc., and the inevitable couple of gallons of Carlsberg Pilsner. My word they did us proud, and their showers were so good I shaved my beard and changed my underwear too! (First time this trip, of course). In between feasts we were expected to go to lunch and dinner with them as well, but wisely decided against it. I went for a huge walk away over the hills and climbed a nice little snowy peak to have a good gawk at the ice-caps. Took along the ice axe, etc. and had a marvellous time kicking steps, glissading, etc. My boots very comfortable and with the immediate prospect of 5 weeks climbing ​as soon as we leave Julianhaab all is very right with the world. 
-Should arrive at Julianhaab this evening at about 8 or 9 p.m. Ala..1'​t ​the current is against us and our 14 horse power engine is battling to do 17 + 
-knots'tis a Sunday, so should be able to do some shopping tomorrow (soap and razor blades once again). + 
-The fjords differ very much. Some are very open and flat with low +Should arrive at Julianhaab this evening at about 8 or 9 p.m. Alas, the current is against us and our 14 horse power engine is battling to do 17 knots'tis a Sunday, so should be able to do some shopping tomorrow (soap and razor blades once again). 
-bluffs of granite, and moorland, while the next are of the glacier-formation type - sheer and very deep, hundreds of fathoms in many cases, with delight. fl wee bays and anchorages every now and then with a waterfall and stream coming ​dawn from some pass or other, probably from the remains of a glacial + 
-hanging.valley. +The fjords differ very much. Some are very open and flat with low bluffs of granite, and moorland, while the next are of the glacier formation type - sheer and very deep, hundreds of fathoms in many cases, with delightful ​wee bays and anchorages every now and then with a waterfall and stream coming ​down from some pass or other, probably from the remains of a glacial hanging valley. 
-Fell foul of the ice again yesterday, motor-sailed all day to the head of .a fjord Where was to be found our first climb and a short cut to + 
-+Fell foul of the ice again yesterday, motor-sailed all day to the head of a fjord Where was to be found our first climb and a short cut to JulianhaabHa! Ha! Right at the head we were totally blocked by the ide and so had, to give up only 4 miles from some excellent Viking ruins, too.  Alas! Still, it was our best day yet for weather; sparkling clear and sunny. ​ I got quite sunburnt. As the icecap came down to the fjord edge in a couple ​of places ​(shelving extra ice of course) it was a most interesting day.
-JulianaabHaii Ha! Right at the head we were totally blocked by the ide +
-and so had, to give up only 4 miles from some excellent Viking ruins, too. +
-Alas! Still, it was our best day-yet for weather; sparkling clear and +
-sunny,. I got quite sunburnt. As the icecap came do Wn to the fjord edge in a douple ​of .paaees ​(shelving extra ice of course) it was a most interesting day.+
  
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197009.txt · Last modified: 2016/03/13 09:52 by vievems