196601
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| ======The Sydney Bushwalker.====== | ======The Sydney Bushwalker.====== | ||
| - | Amonthly | + | A monthly |
| Box. No. 4476, G.P.O. Sydney. 'Phone 843985. | Box. No. 4476, G.P.O. Sydney. 'Phone 843985. | ||
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| | | |Page| | | | |Page| | ||
| |December General Meeting|J. Brown| 2| | |December General Meeting|J. Brown| 2| | ||
| - | |Social Notes For Januray| | 4| | + | |Social Notes For January| | 4| |
| |The Kosciusko State Park|M. Dunphy| 5| | |The Kosciusko State Park|M. Dunphy| 5| | ||
| |Day Walks| |10| | |Day Walks| |10| | ||
| Line 43: | Line 43: | ||
| Now the President announced that prospective members who may be hampered by the lack of test walks would have a time extension to April. However if leaders believed that their walk was of test standard, they may write to Committee seeking its acceptance for prospectives in their party. | Now the President announced that prospective members who may be hampered by the lack of test walks would have a time extension to April. However if leaders believed that their walk was of test standard, they may write to Committee seeking its acceptance for prospectives in their party. | ||
| - | The Presidont | + | The President |
| Ron Knightley pointed to a pair of ice axes and 2 sets of crampons donated by a retired mountaineer, | Ron Knightley pointed to a pair of ice axes and 2 sets of crampons donated by a retired mountaineer, | ||
| Line 69: | Line 69: | ||
| Alan Rigby' | Alan Rigby' | ||
| - | " | + | " |
| ---- | ---- | ||
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| The NSW Federation of Bushwalking clubs, established in 1930 to consolidate and regulate bushwalking formed its own Conservation Bureau in 1938. Thereafter it pursued a parallel path with the NPPA council and added weight to the conservation drive. The requirements of practical users of the scenic bushland were recognised by the authorities and several new parklands wore established. | The NSW Federation of Bushwalking clubs, established in 1930 to consolidate and regulate bushwalking formed its own Conservation Bureau in 1938. Thereafter it pursued a parallel path with the NPPA council and added weight to the conservation drive. The requirements of practical users of the scenic bushland were recognised by the authorities and several new parklands wore established. | ||
| - | In the period 1933-1946 the NPPA Council worked with all speed most of the time in touch with Surveyor General H.B. Mathaws | + | In the period 1933-1946 the NPPA Council worked with all speed most of the time in touch with Surveyor General H.B. Mathews |
| When the situation eased the bushwalking conservation movement was resumed on a greater scale than before, there being a marked increase in the number of Clubs and other conservation societies. In fact the feeling for the conservation of bushland and wildlife had developed to an extraordinary extent. The scientific bodies were taking notice of the park schemes being initiated and formulated, and gave moral support to some of them. Some conservation societies had supported NPPA Council schemes from the beginning notably the Wildlife Preservation Society, the Parks and Playground Movement and The Rangers League. | When the situation eased the bushwalking conservation movement was resumed on a greater scale than before, there being a marked increase in the number of Clubs and other conservation societies. In fact the feeling for the conservation of bushland and wildlife had developed to an extraordinary extent. The scientific bodies were taking notice of the park schemes being initiated and formulated, and gave moral support to some of them. Some conservation societies had supported NPPA Council schemes from the beginning notably the Wildlife Preservation Society, the Parks and Playground Movement and The Rangers League. | ||
| - | Included in thc several projects of the NPPA Cnuncil | + | Included in the several projects of the NPPA Council |
| - | NPPA Council men and other bushwalkers continued to carry out numerous pack carrying expeditions of upwards of two weeks durtion | + | NPPA Council men and other bushwalkers continued to carry out numerous pack carrying expeditions of upwards of two weeks duration |
| In 1944 NPPA Council decided it was time to straighten out Snowy Indi Scheme in preparation for submission when the opportunity arose after the war but events were precipitated by action taken at a higher level. Statements in the Press and elsewhere made it plain that many activities concerning the water rights of three states were involved - water catchment, irrigation, Murray and Snowy River flows, electric power generation, sheep and cattle grazing, forestry and probably mining. Also recreations such as summer motoring, winter sports, recreational walking trail riding, fishing and nature study. Scientists also had their interests. The extent of the productive activities was alarming, it seemed that matters of recreation, scenic wilderness might be trampled underfoot. It was felt that the time was opportune to show there existed a strong body of opinion in favour of reserving a large area of the Snowy Mountains in its wilderness state. Investigations continued. | In 1944 NPPA Council decided it was time to straighten out Snowy Indi Scheme in preparation for submission when the opportunity arose after the war but events were precipitated by action taken at a higher level. Statements in the Press and elsewhere made it plain that many activities concerning the water rights of three states were involved - water catchment, irrigation, Murray and Snowy River flows, electric power generation, sheep and cattle grazing, forestry and probably mining. Also recreations such as summer motoring, winter sports, recreational walking trail riding, fishing and nature study. Scientists also had their interests. The extent of the productive activities was alarming, it seemed that matters of recreation, scenic wilderness might be trampled underfoot. It was felt that the time was opportune to show there existed a strong body of opinion in favour of reserving a large area of the Snowy Mountains in its wilderness state. Investigations continued. | ||
| - | On 8.4.43 officers of the Department of Lands verbally advised the NPPA to submit its Snow Indi Scheme in June. Intensive work was caried | + | On 8.4.43 officers of the Department of Lands verbally advised the NPPA to submit its Snow Indi Scheme in June. Intensive work was carried |
| The Department arranged a meeting between M.J. Dunphy and Messrs. Harnett and Barrie for 3.8.43. The Select Committee explained aspects of the matter very clearly and gave the NPPA spokesman a good hearing. The discussion was continued on the following day when several senior Lands Department officers joined in. The emergent facts and matters were - | The Department arranged a meeting between M.J. Dunphy and Messrs. Harnett and Barrie for 3.8.43. The Select Committee explained aspects of the matter very clearly and gave the NPPA spokesman a good hearing. The discussion was continued on the following day when several senior Lands Department officers joined in. The emergent facts and matters were - | ||
| - | - The committee said at once they were not interested in the proposed parkland across the border in Victoria, and said that dual control could not be considered (thus the two state unique feature was cast out without further comment. As a mattor | + | - The committee said at once they were not interested in the proposed parkland across the border in Victoria, and said that dual control could not be considered (thus the two state unique feature was cast out without further comment. As a matter |
| - Legislation would be brought down to reorganize the grazing leases, covering practically the whole area to preserve the considerable revenue derived from lease rents or tenders. | - Legislation would be brought down to reorganize the grazing leases, covering practically the whole area to preserve the considerable revenue derived from lease rents or tenders. | ||
| - Water conservation. | - Water conservation. | ||
| Line 136: | Line 136: | ||
| What has been recorded here deals with facts and circumstances bearing on the beginnings of a great State Park which, because of inherent complications and diverse even conflicting interests will always be a compromise area no matter how wise its administration, | What has been recorded here deals with facts and circumstances bearing on the beginnings of a great State Park which, because of inherent complications and diverse even conflicting interests will always be a compromise area no matter how wise its administration, | ||
| - | In conclusion, as some adknowledgement | + | In conclusion, as some acknowledgement |
| 22nd December, 1965. | 22nd December, 1965. | ||
| Line 145: | Line 145: | ||
| |January 30|Engadine - Woronora River - Lake Eckersley - Heathcote. 7 miles. A visit to the Northern portion of the Heathcote Primitive Area. This section of the Woronora River is rocky and could involve a rock scramble. Excellent swimming at Lake Eckersley. Train: Ring leader at B0961 Extension 3077 for departure time. Tickets: Heathcote return @ 5/6. Map: Heathcote Primitive Area or Port Hacking Tourist. Leader: Jim Calloway.| | |January 30|Engadine - Woronora River - Lake Eckersley - Heathcote. 7 miles. A visit to the Northern portion of the Heathcote Primitive Area. This section of the Woronora River is rocky and could involve a rock scramble. Excellent swimming at Lake Eckersley. Train: Ring leader at B0961 Extension 3077 for departure time. Tickets: Heathcote return @ 5/6. Map: Heathcote Primitive Area or Port Hacking Tourist. Leader: Jim Calloway.| | ||
| - | |Febuary | + | |February |
| |February 13|Waterfall - bus to Governor Game Lookout - Thelma Ridge - Era Beach - Mt. Bulgo - Bald Hill - Otford. 10 miles. After a short sharp descent to Era Beach, there should be ample time for surfing. Then right through the Garrawarra Primitive Area to the panorama at Bald Hill. Suitable for new members. Train: 8.20 a.m. Cronulla Train Central Electric Station to Sutherland. Change at Sutherland for rail motor to Waterfall. Tickets: Otford return @ 8/- plus 2/- bus fare Waterfall - Governor Game Lookout. Map: Port Hacking Tourist. Leader: David Ingram.| | |February 13|Waterfall - bus to Governor Game Lookout - Thelma Ridge - Era Beach - Mt. Bulgo - Bald Hill - Otford. 10 miles. After a short sharp descent to Era Beach, there should be ample time for surfing. Then right through the Garrawarra Primitive Area to the panorama at Bald Hill. Suitable for new members. Train: 8.20 a.m. Cronulla Train Central Electric Station to Sutherland. Change at Sutherland for rail motor to Waterfall. Tickets: Otford return @ 8/- plus 2/- bus fare Waterfall - Governor Game Lookout. Map: Port Hacking Tourist. Leader: David Ingram.| | ||
| Line 160: | Line 160: | ||
| From skin divers camping by their chosen spot to alpinists at their mountain top, from the walker, canoeist and cyclist to the car camper and round the world traveller more people than ever before took Paddy Made camping equipment on their adventures and travels. | From skin divers camping by their chosen spot to alpinists at their mountain top, from the walker, canoeist and cyclist to the car camper and round the world traveller more people than ever before took Paddy Made camping equipment on their adventures and travels. | ||
| - | Perhaps someone told them Paddy Made gear is best, it has been used by more ponrle | + | Perhaps someone told them Paddy Made gear is best, it has been used by more people |
| Take a good tip from people who know. | Take a good tip from people who know. | ||
| Line 166: | Line 166: | ||
| For all your specialised camping gear call on | For all your specialised camping gear call on | ||
| - | Paddy Pallin Pty.Ltd., | + | Paddy Pallin Pty. Ltd., |
| 1st Floor, Cnr. George and Bathurst Sts., Sydney. 262685. | 1st Floor, Cnr. George and Bathurst Sts., Sydney. 262685. | ||
| Line 172: | Line 172: | ||
| ---- | ---- | ||
| - | =====Propsecting | + | =====Prospecting |
| By Marie Byles. | By Marie Byles. | ||
| Line 206: | Line 206: | ||
| It was good to breathe the high mountain air once again. I sat for a long while looking over the long white scree slopes and dreamed of what I would have done twenty, thirty, forty years ago. The climb up was exhilarating but the climb down was rather exhausting. One kind young man came back to keep an eye on me until I reached the bottom again. I wonder did he belong to the Search and Rescue Section! Most of the walkers and climbers wore heavy, rubber-soled canvas boots, which probably slipped less on the rolling pebbles than my own stout rubber-soled sandals. | It was good to breathe the high mountain air once again. I sat for a long while looking over the long white scree slopes and dreamed of what I would have done twenty, thirty, forty years ago. The climb up was exhilarating but the climb down was rather exhausting. One kind young man came back to keep an eye on me until I reached the bottom again. I wonder did he belong to the Search and Rescue Section! Most of the walkers and climbers wore heavy, rubber-soled canvas boots, which probably slipped less on the rolling pebbles than my own stout rubber-soled sandals. | ||
| - | Over the forest of deciduous trees and conifers rose not only the rocky mountains, but also an active volcano which smoked realistically from time to time remirding | + | Over the forest of deciduous trees and conifers rose not only the rocky mountains, but also an active volcano which smoked realistically from time to time reminding |
| It is hard to compare the beauties of mountains I have seen in so many countries. The Japanese Alps rise seven thousand feet above the inns and hostels along the rivers and would provide strenuous enough scrambles to suit the toughest, while the camera can find pictures wherever it looks, whether in the creeper-entwined forests or on the open white stony banks of the rivers. | It is hard to compare the beauties of mountains I have seen in so many countries. The Japanese Alps rise seven thousand feet above the inns and hostels along the rivers and would provide strenuous enough scrambles to suit the toughest, while the camera can find pictures wherever it looks, whether in the creeper-entwined forests or on the open white stony banks of the rivers. | ||
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| The Japanese Alps are not for the young Australian who thirsts for snow and ice for there is neither in summer, and in winter they are inaccessible for skiing. But they do call to the middle-aged Bushwalker whose search is mainly for beauty. And they are a superb example of how an over-populated country can none the less afford to have wilderness areas untouched by the axe. The forests are of mixed evergreen and deciduous trees, and among the latter is the lovely silver birch which loses its bark in rings so that you think some vandal must have tried to ring-bark it. The floor of the lower forest consists predominantly of a dwarf bamboo which would make impossibly slow-going without a track. But tracks abound, and likewise excellent maps (in Japanese, of course). At least I suppose they were excellent if one judged by the seriousness with which the trampers would pour over them - just as __we__ used to do. | The Japanese Alps are not for the young Australian who thirsts for snow and ice for there is neither in summer, and in winter they are inaccessible for skiing. But they do call to the middle-aged Bushwalker whose search is mainly for beauty. And they are a superb example of how an over-populated country can none the less afford to have wilderness areas untouched by the axe. The forests are of mixed evergreen and deciduous trees, and among the latter is the lovely silver birch which loses its bark in rings so that you think some vandal must have tried to ring-bark it. The floor of the lower forest consists predominantly of a dwarf bamboo which would make impossibly slow-going without a track. But tracks abound, and likewise excellent maps (in Japanese, of course). At least I suppose they were excellent if one judged by the seriousness with which the trampers would pour over them - just as __we__ used to do. | ||
| - | If you are thinking of going to Kamikochi I should recommend October when the trees flame with orange red and gold. You could avoid the language difficulty if you took your tent and camped beside the rushing river, either taking food with you or buying it at the shops attadhed | + | If you are thinking of going to Kamikochi I should recommend October when the trees flame with orange red and gold. You could avoid the language difficulty if you took your tent and camped beside the rushing river, either taking food with you or buying it at the shops attached |
| - | Later on I visited the mountain resort of Koya San, the headquarters of the Shingon Buddhist Sect. It abounds in lovely temples around which always grow the tall dark crytpameria and cyprus trees. It was exactly the right time to see the deciduous trees in all their autumn glory, and it was exactly | + | Later on I visited the mountain resort of Koya San, the headquarters of the Shingon Buddhist Sect. It abounds in lovely temples around which always grow the tall dark crytpameria and cyprus trees. It was exactly the right time to see the deciduous trees in all their autumn glory, and it was exactly |
| The mountains of Japan have left behind the memory of people with hearts of gold to match their golden gingko trees. I should like to visit them again but I should prefer to wait for another life so that I could scramble among their rocky peaks. | The mountains of Japan have left behind the memory of people with hearts of gold to match their golden gingko trees. I should like to visit them again but I should prefer to wait for another life so that I could scramble among their rocky peaks. | ||
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| ---- | ---- | ||
| - | Reminiscences of a Climberg - Colin Putt | + | =====Running Away To Shore - Reminiscences of a Climber.===== |
| - | RUNNING AWAY TO SHORE | + | |
| - | Myer intended., for a start, to ga in for climbing as a sport, and that' | + | |
| - | up in a family atmosphere of boats and sailing; sea chanties were sung | + | |
| - | over my cradle and thy earliest clear memory is of my father steeping planks and timbers in a steambax. Before I went to school I had learned about the vast superiority of gaff rig, fiddle bows and tarred hemp standing rigging. , This theoretical grounding was followed by a solid course in Umnts, bends and splices, rowing steering and so on. | + | By Colin Putt |
| - | Later I acquired and rigged by own sailing dinghy and spent all my spare time at sea, taking special care to be out in the middle of winter | + | |
| - | and in particularly violent storms, which were alw ays more interesting and could offer faster sailing. | + | |
| - | uncles, although a good sailor, used to go to snowy places and indulge in | + | |
| - | a mysterious sport called " | + | |
| - | when the general use of crampons had not yet been adopted in New Zealand): but this was not much talked of in the family. | + | |
| - | The dinghy, with her rigging and on a wheeled cradle, weighed about 250 lbs. and had to be pulled home up a mile of extremely steep hill from the water after each day's sailing. A* the age of 16 I got a job as a | + | |
| - | truck driver with a survey team *c were mapping some unmapped bits of | + | |
| - | New Zealand; the job involved little driving and a lot of carrying heavy | + | |
| - | loads, of foot, through row3L country. HeaVy packing was dead easy after. years of practice dragging -che boat up bill and I began to enjoy the bush | + | |
| - | at once. At the University I naturally joined the tramping clubs and. began | + | |
| - | to go to the ice mountains for climbing. Shifton points out that mountain,. eering and sailing are very similar while his climbing companion, Tilman, although saying little, currently spends about half of every year sailing the Arctic seas. The transfer from one of these sports tn the other is easy and barely noticeable. | + | |
| - | In the 1940's much of New Zealand' | + | |
| - | Our first virgin summit was reached afto-.. a week's travel on snow and ice, with 90 lb. packs, in country where only two parties had ever been before, camping in the new6-fangled snow6-caves0 TTe were stopped half way up our peak by a horrific bergs chrund. with a narrow shaky bridge and a | + | |
| - | 15 ft. overhanging ice-wall above it. Self-levitation with two axes got us up this and soon afterwards we were faced. with some 300 ft. of rock. Our technique on rock, at this stage, was to scramble up as best we could' winding the rope around outcrops whore available; fortunately on this occasion we | + | |
| - | ' 17 | + | |
| - | The Syaney :ustrp aker | + | |
| - | Jnnunry, 1966 | + | |
| - | were able to cut fstops up a steep cnuloir of rotten ice, bombarded by stones, and avoid the 300 ft. of mod diff grade rock interspersed by broad ledges. On the way down, we cut an ice-bollard at the bergscbrund and roped down it. I was last man down an-1. on arriving at the lower lip gave the rope a tug to free it on the bollard. The bollard flew off and hit me square on the head! TO were involved in a small harmless avalanche on the way down - in those days there seamed to be more avalanches than now and the summer climbing season was colder, snowier and later. Or could it be that our equipment and techniques have improved? | + | |
| - | By 1949 I had joined one of the small groups which had acquired pre-war English books on rock-climbing and were trying to use the techniques described in them. The next year I came to Australia and found that climbing was | + | |
| - | looked on in the 1-ushwaiking clubs as a criminal activity. Although the local sandstone frightened me, and utill does, I naturally got involved in-the early efforts to popularise the sport among bushwalkers, | + | |
| - | use simple belaying techniques and to abseil. Some memorable early climbs followed - the first rock-climbing Instructional of the Sydney Bushwalkers, | + | |
| - | In 1956 I visited Zermatt with three English climbers and found-that the famous Swiss Alps were no more difficult or fearsome that Yew Zealand after all. | + | |
| - | Our best climb was a frontier traverse, from Monte Rosa over the Lyskamm, Castor and. Pollux. We mulci have gone on over the Breithorn but a sudden electrical storm forced us to reti eat-aown-th6 Nbrth Face of Pollux, so that | + | |
| - | my only Face Nor has been done downwards, not.-up. This was the sort of | + | |
| - | climbiOg I like - long distances covered fa'st a:t high altitudes, | + | |
| - | a bit of exposurevand not much rock; a kind. of climbing that would be barely ,Ilossible. without crampons, and. in Which you are likely to spend the next night in a bivouac, or a but on the wrong side of the range. Here T reAchea the high point ofmy-cliMbing carear. When a Swiss guide who saw me cutting steps took me for an Austrian guide! | + | |
| - | On my retbrn to Australia I found that Australians had. been getting into trouble in New Zealand. Numb ors of them-had-gone over to climb, sathe had. been killed, thellocals felt they-mere unsafeand, | + | |
| - | .6 | + | |
| - | Jr nur try, 1966. The Sydney - Dush7.7.lker | + | |
| - | own novices. All this of course, involves a lot of organising, and I was soon to find that while climbers are dead easy to get for expeditions, | + | |
| - | In 1960 I was cornered at Mascot Airport by Norman Hardie, who was on his way to Nepal, and asked, "roula you like to lead an expedition?" | + | |
| - | "Yes, where to?" (Never miss an opportunity, | + | |
| - | It turiled out to be to the Carstensz mountains of Dutch New Guinea. It was a hard, unoorfortable ana sometimes dangerous trip, with very little climbing, but at least I got my partyall: | + | |
| - | Two years later, in En61and, at the end of a gcmd day s rockclimbing, | + | |
| - | "re are going to Heard Island to climb Big Ben next year, will you come?" | + | |
| - | (Marginal note from my wife: 'O.K., you can go." | + | |
| - | 18 months later I sicoa at the wheel of the schooner Patanela, steering | + | |
| - | % | + | |
| - | by a star as she thrashed through the grey seas of the Southern Oceanunder | + | |
| - | closer9ef ed canvas..--- | + | |
| - | , ..-:_ C.,.' . | + | |
| - | | + | |
| - | ... | + | |
| - | apparently | + | |
| - | world. ' | + | |
| - | : . . 7 | + | |
| - | "Now these barbaidus people had such a F;loiy in-themselves -and distained their enemies so much, that more to-show their force and boldnes than of any necessity that compelled them, or for any benefit' | + | |
| - | climb ti p to th6 tops of mountains through great heaps of ice and snow. | + | |
| - | o - | + | |
| - | And., when they were at the very top of all, they-laid thoir long targets under their bodies, and lay all along tron thimp' | + | |
| - | steep high rocks,' | + | |
| + | |||
| + | I never intended, for a start, to go in for climbing as a sport, and that's why, perhaps, I'm still not very good at it. I was brought up in a family atmosphere of boats and sailing; sea chanties were sung over my cradle and my earliest clear memory is of my father steeping planks and timbers in a steambox. Before I went to school I had learned about the vast superiority of gaff rig, fiddle bows and tarred hemp standing rigging. This theoretical grounding was followed by a solid course in knots, bends and splices, rowing steering, and so on. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Later I acquired and rigged by own sailing dinghy and spent all my spare time at sea, taking special care to be out in the middle of winter and in particularly violent storms, which were always more interesting and could offer faster sailing. By this time I had learned that one of my uncles, although a good sailor, used to go to snowy places and indulge in a mysterious sport called " | ||
| + | |||
| + | The dinghy, with her rigging and on a wheeled cradle, weighed about 250 lbs. and had to be pulled home up a mile of extremely steep hill from the water after each day's sailing. At the age of 16 I got a job as a truck driver with a survey team who were mapping some unmapped bits of New Zealand; the job involved little driving and a lot of carrying heavy loads, on foot, through rough country. Heavy packing was dead easy after years of practice dragging the boat up hill and I began to enjoy the bush at once. At the University I naturally joined the tramping clubs and began to go to the ice mountains for climbing. Shiften points out that mountaineering and sailing are very similar while his climbing companion, Tilman, although saying little, currently spends about half of every year sailing the Arctic seas. The transfer from one of these sports to the other is easy and barely noticeable. | ||
| + | |||
| + | In the 1940's much of New Zealand' | ||
| + | |||
| + | Our first virgin summit was reached after a week's travel on snow and ice, with 90 lb. packs, in country where only two parties had ever been before, camping in the new-fangled snow-caves. We were stopped half way up our peak by a horrific bergschrund with a narrow shaky bridge and a 15 ft. overhanging ice-wall above it. Self-levitation with two axes got us up this and soon afterwards we were faced with some 300 ft. of rock. Our technique on rock, at this stage, was to scramble up as best we could winding the rope around outcrops where available; fortunately on this occasion we were able to cut steps up a steep couloir of rotten ice, bombarded by stones, and avoid the 300 ft. of mod. diff. grade rock interspersed by broad ledges. On the way down, we cut an ice-bollard at the bergschrund and roped down it. I was last man down and on arriving at the lower lip gave the rope a tug to free it on the bollard. The bollard flew off and hit me square on the head! We were involved in a small harmless avalanche on the way down - in those days there seemed to be more avalanches than now and the summer climbing season was colder, snowier and later. Or could it be that our equipment and techniques have improved? | ||
| + | |||
| + | By 1949 I had joined one of the small groups which had acquired pre-war English books on rock-climbing and were trying to use the techniques described in them. The next year I came to Australia and found that climbing was looked on in the bushwalking clubs as a criminal activity. Although the local sandstone frightened me, and still does, I naturally got involved in the early efforts to popularise the sport among bushwalkers, | ||
| + | |||
| + | In 1956 I visited Zermatt with three English climbers and found that the famous Swiss Alps were no more difficult or fearsome that New Zealand after all. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Our best climb was a frontier traverse, from Monte Rosa over the Lyskamm, Castor and Pollux. We would have gone on over the Breithorn but a sudden electrical storm forced us to retreat down the North Face of Pollux, so that my only Face Nor has been done downwards, not up. This was the sort of climbing I like - long distances covered fast at high altitudes, on ice, a bit of exposure, and not much rock; a kind of climbing that would be barely possible without crampons, and in which you are likely to spend the next night in a bivouac, or a hut on the wrong side of the range. Here I reached the high point of my climbing career when a Swiss guide who saw me cutting steps took me for an Austrian guide! | ||
| + | |||
| + | On my return to Australia I found that Australians had been getting into trouble in New Zealand. Numbers of them had gone over to climb, some had been killed, the locals felt they were unsafe and wouldn' | ||
| + | |||
| + | In 1960 I was cornered at Mascot Airport by Norman Hardie, who was on his way to Nepal, and asked, "Would you like to lead an expedition?" | ||
| + | |||
| + | "Yes, where to?" (Never miss an opportunity, | ||
| + | |||
| + | It turned out to be to the Carstensz mountains of Dutch New Guinea. It was a hard, uncomfortable and sometimes dangerous trip, with very little climbing, but at least I got my party all back alive, and we completed a useful reconnaissance to some good scientific work. I learned, the hard way, that planning and organisation are of prime importance; morale is next on the list, and that given these the ascent of the peak will probably follow unasked. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Two years later, in England, at the end of a good day s rockclimbing, | ||
| + | |||
| + | "We are going to Heard Island to climb Big Ben next year, will you come?" | ||
| + | |||
| + | (Marginal note from my wife: "O.K., you can go.") | ||
| + | |||
| + | 18 months later I stood at the wheel of the schooner Patanela, steering by a star as she thrashed through the grey seas of the Southern Ocean under close-reefed canvas. | ||
| + | |||
| + | This, I think, is about where I came in to this story. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ---- | ||
| + | |||
| + | ====Early Climbers.==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | from N.Z.A.C. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Apparently there' | ||
| + | |||
| + | "Now these barbarous people had such a glory in themselves and distained their enemies so much, that more to show their force and boldness than of any necessity that compelled them, or for any benefit they got by it, they suffered it to snow upon them... and did | ||
| + | climb up to the tops of mountains through great heaps of ice and snow. And, when they were at the very top of all, they laid their long targets under their bodies, and lay all along upon them, sliding down the steep high rocks, that had certain hangings over of an infinite height." | ||
196601.1469075908.txt.gz · Last modified: 2016/07/21 14:38 by tyreless