Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- 196206 [2019/06/17 11:08] – tyreless
+++ 196206 [2019/06/17 13:03] – tyreless
@@ Line 148: / Line 148: @@
 ----
-THE ASCENT OF THE 'NORTH WEST FACE OF FEDERATION PEAK. Boto("Strawb") Jones.
+===== The Ascent Of The North Face Of Federation Peak. =====
+Bobo ("Strawb") Jones.
 It was Monday evening, January 1st. I had just blown out the candle and I was carrying out that ritual peculiar to those who use sleeping-bags. The night was fine, and we were banking on a fine day for the morrow.
-As I lay there, slowly drifting off to sleep, my thoughts reInged back over the preparations for the trip: to long letters written to Jack and doubts about there being enough people 'to make the trip possible. There were only four of us IATJ:.o finally boarded the plane on Boxing Day 1960; Jack O'Halloran, the leader Geoff Shaw, Robin Dunse and myself.
-The march into BercherVaise Plateau had been a hot exhausting slog. I could still see us stretched out Ineath some bushes on that hot afternoon on the slopes of Mt. Picton. We brewed tea while we waited for the heat of the day to pass. As we slogged along the South
- Picton range the haze-of bushfire smoke hung far to the north; an unusual sight for the south west of Tasmania Then again, sleeping out at night during the march up Berchervaise Plateau was unusual also! Our combined thoughts then were, "If. only we have this weather during
- adr attempt at the climb.  It was also suggested that drinking water would be a riroblem on the climb.
- . .
-Now, after a combined reconnaissance"of the route, our thoughts were still Mainly for good weather. Geoff and Rob had viewed the climb roughly in profile from' the most eastern ridge of the peak,
-whilst Jqck and myself had traced a. route. from the valley floor directly below the climb. Our findings agreed on' one, point - the overhand about two-thirds the way up the main face would be difficult to negotiate.
-We woke the next morning to fine weather With the early morning cloud dispersin& -Although our intentions of an early start were good, time was wasted:as'We- decided what type of equipment and food would be most suitable to take:. We were only setting out for a "look"at the climb, so only neagre rations were taken : It was 10 a m, when we 'finally left'daMp::
-. '  .
-, We climbed to the Terrace and then ::traversed north between the Federation Massif and a large pinnacle which was visible from camp. We then descended a'couloir facing north west and at 12 p m: lwe began climbing on its western side; our aim 'being to meet the "Blade Ridge" which ascends directly from the Valley floor. I climbed with Jack, whilst Rob and Geoff climbed together.
--
+As I lay there, slowly drifting off to sleep, my thoughts ranged back over the preparations for the trip: to long letters written to Jack and doubts about there being enough people to make the trip possible. There were only four of us who finally boarded the plane on Boxing Day 1960; Jack O'Halloran, the leader Geoff Shaw, Robin Dunse and myself.
- . led up the first pitch fOr 120- feet 6ver greaSy,:scrub-covered rock.. The route led straight up from the gullyi across a smooth, -shallow Water course and up-bn-t:o a buttress. , Jack followed, and led
-feet further up' the buttresS. I joined' him and we paused to view
+The march into Berchervaise Plateau had been a hot exhausting slog. I could still see us stretched out 'neath some bushes on that hot afternoon on the slopes of Mt. Picton. We brewed tea while we waited for the heat of the day to pass. As we slogged along the South Picton range the haze of bushfire smoke hung far to the north; an unusual sight for the south west of Tasmania. Then again, sleeping out at night during the march up Berchervaise Plateau was unusual also! Our combined thoughts then were, "If only we have this weather during our attempt at the climb." It was also suggested that drinking water would be a problem on the climb.
-.?
-. The Sydney Bushwalker June 1962
+Now, after a combined reconnaissance of the route, our thoughts were still mainly for good weather. Geoff and Rob had viewed the climb roughly in profile from the most eastern ridge of the peak, whilst Jack and myself had traced a route from the valley floor directly below the climb. Our findings agreed on one point - the overhand about two-thirds the way up the main face would be difficult to negotiate.
-our surroundings. Opposite to us on the other side of the main couloir on the most w3-5tern ridge of the mountain was a huge gendarme It rises straight from the valley floor and when viewed from the Devil's Ears it appears as a separate entity to the left of the Peak proper. From our vantage point we could see a magnificant climb which began from the coloir itself on good slabs, and leading into a magnificent chimney. The climb ended in a crack. It was from the top of this feature that Rob and Geoff had done their reconnaissance on 30th December.
-By this time the others were drawing near, so I led down and acroe toward the "Blade". An easy pitch of 70 feet up a corner brought Jack and myself to that point where the Blade " ridge joins the north west face proper. Here we rested and waited for the other two to join us. So far we had done 350 feet of climbing. When all four of us were together we took stock of our situation. We were perched on a blade o rock which plunged away into awesome depths on either side. Imnediatel above loomed the gigantic north west face of Federation Peak. The scale was tremendous, and we marvelled at the view. As we munched
+We woke the next morning to fine weather with the early morning cloud dispersin&g. Although our intentions of an early start were good, time was wasted as we decided what type of equipment and food would be most suitable to take. We were only setting out for a "look" at the climb, so only meagre rations were taken. It was 10 a.m. when we finally left camp.
-chocolate we talked over our immediate plans. The time was 2.30 pm, which gave us at least six hours of daylight-time to reach the top. Also, the weather looked like being fine for the remainder of the day.
-I started off and climbed to the top of an easy diagonal ledge one rope length away. Jack followed and then led through; first up the
+We climbed to the Terrace and then traversed north between the Federation Massif and a large pinnacle which was visible from camp. We then descended a couloir facing north west and at 12 p.m. we began climbing on its western side; our aim being to meet the "Blade Ridge" which ascends directly from the Valley floor. I climbed with Jack, whilst Rob and Geoff climbed together.
-face for 20 feet, along a groove for about 20 feet, and then straight
-up to a good stance near a pinnacle. The exposure over those delicate holds was emphasised when some chocolate slipped from Jack's pocket an went spiralling into the depths. After passing my companion.I began climbing up a coloir of moderate difficulty. About 40 feet up it branched and I took the right hand fork and climbed upwards for anothe) 40 feet, well protected by large boulders. Here I encountered a grass: ledge (which we later called the "Bus Stop"). I followed it left for further 20 feet. Here I belayed myself to a rock and in response to ti earlier requests of the other two, I untied so that Jack could belay them over the difficult section.
+I led up the first pitch for 120 feet over greasy, scrub-covered rock. The route led straight up from the gully, across a smooth, shallow water course and up on to a buttress. Jack followed and led 70 feet further up the buttress. I joined him and we paused to view our surroundings. Opposite to us on the other side of the main couloir on the most western ridge of the mountain was a huge gendarme. It rises straight from the valley floor and when viewed from the Devil's Ears it appears as a separate entity to the left of the Peak proper. From our vantage point we could see a magnificant climb which began from the coloir itself on good slabs, and leading into a magnificent chimney. The climb ended in a crack. It was from the top of this feature that Rob and Geoff had done their reconnaissance on 30th December.
-Whilst these manoeuvres were taking place down below me I made a study of the overhang, 120 feet above me. It did seem that a way 14gh1 be forced up it by taking a route up an overhanging chimney - if we could get into it! Unfortunately the interchange of ropes down below took quite some time and it was ages before Geoff appeared. Jack foll( and leaving Geoff. to bring up Rob, we joined forces nee more.
-led off, first left for.10 feet, then upwards in a groove for 50 feet I banged in a piton and a delicate move brought me out onto
+By this time the others were drawing near, so I led down and across toward the "Blade". An easy pitch of 70 feet up a corner brought Jack and myself to that point where the "Blade" ridge joins the north west face proper. Here we rested and waited for the other two to join us. So far we had done 350 feet of climbing. When all four of us were together we took stock of our situation. We were perched on a blade of rock which plunged away into awesome depths on either side. Immediately above loomed the gigantic north west face of Federation Peak. The scale was tremendous, and we marvelled at the view. As we munched chocolate we talked over our immediate plans. The time was 2.30 pm, which gave us at least six hours of daylight-time to reach the top. Also, the weather looked like being fine for the remainder of the day.
-the face again. From here I climbed upwards diagonally to the right for 25 feet, until I reached a large protruding flake. I fixed a runner and traversed left:for 15 feet toward a corner. I was only
-feet below the overhang. There I banged in a piton and prepared to
+I started off and climbed to the top of an easy diagonal ledge one rope length away. Jack followed and then led through; first up the face for 20 feet, along a groove for about 20 feet, and then straight up to a good stance near a pinnacle. The exposure over those delicate holds was emphasised when some chocolate slipped from Jack's pocket and went spiralling into the depths. After passing my companion I began climbing up a coloir of moderate difficulty. About 40 feet up it branched and I took the right hand fork and climbed upwards for another 40 feet, well protected by large boulders. Here I encountered a grass ledge (which we later called the "Bus Stop"). I followed it left for further 20 feet. Here I belayed myself to a rock and in response to the earlier requests of the other two, I untied so that Jack could belay them over the difficult section.
-June 1962 The Sydney Bushwalker
-belay the others. Jack joined me and we agreed that in order to climb into the chimneyk we had to traverse around the corner. Jack' set out and tried hard. He cams back shaking his head. "Can't
+Whilst these manoeuvres were taking place down below me I made a study of the overhang, 120 feet above me. It did seem that a way might be forced up it by taking a route up an overhanging chimney - if we could get into it! Unfortunately the interchange of ropes down below took quite some time and it was ages before Geoff appeared. Jack followed and leaving Geoff. to bring up Rob, we joined forces once more.
-even get a piton in". I had a look at it then decided we might. force it lower down. So I climbed down to the flake and then began traversing on delicate holds. Jack's encouragement egged me on "Good on
-you 'Hermann's you're fairly dancing over those holds." By painstaking steps I inched towards the corner - a delicate move, and I found myself around it, beneath the chimney. A few sure blows with my hammer and I had secured a piton and attached a runner. I yodelled to the others. Entering the chimney proper involved a few very, strenuous moves relying almost entirely on the arms, I then climbed 20 feet up the chimney and anchored myself.
+I led off, first left for 10 feet, then upwards in a groove for 50 feet. I banged in a piton and a delicate move brought me out onto the face again. From here I climbed upwards diagonally to the right for 25 feet, until I reached a large protruding flake. I fixed a runner and traversed left for 15 feet toward a corner. I was only 8 feet below the overhang. There I banged in a piton and prepared to belay the others. Jack joined me and we agreed that in order to climb into the chimney, we had to traverse around the corner. Jack set out and tried hard. He came back shaking his head. "Can't even get a piton in". I had a look at it then decided we might force it lower down. So I climbed down to the flake and then began traversing on delicate holds. Jack's encouragement egged me on "Good on you 'Hermann', you're fairly dancing over those holds." By painstaking steps I inched towards the corner - a delicate move, and I found myself around it, beneath the chimney. A few sure blows with my hammer and I had secured a piton and attached a runner. I yodelled to the others. Entering the chimney proper involved a few very strenuous moves relying almost entirely on the arms. I then climbed 20 feet up the chimney and anchored myself.
-As neither Geoff nor Rob felt like leading Jack had to remain where he was and belay Geoff up to the flake, By now it was raining lightly. Upon reaching this Geoff 's exclamation was "The bloody thing's loose!" Jack followed my traverse to the piton below the chimney: and belayed
-Geoff in turn. He then climbed up to me leaving Geoff to bring Rob up. 'It was now 8.15 p,m. and visibility was poor. Rob reached the flake and with a sterling effort, completed the traverse to Geoff in semidarkness.
+As neither Geoff nor Rob felt like leading Jack had to remain where he was and belay Geoff up to the flake. By now it was raining lightly. Upon reaching this Geoff's exclamation was "The bloody thing's loose!" Jack followed my traverse to the piton below the chimney, and belayed Geoff in turn. He then climbed up to me leaving Geoff to bring Rob up. It was now 8.15 p.m. and visibility was poor. Rob reached the flake and with a sterling effort, completed the traverse to Geoff in semi-darkness.
-Geoff joined Jack and myself whilst Role, who was the only person wearing a parka, remained below tied to the piton. Geoff was straddled with his legs across the chimney Jack was squatting on a chockstone and I found myself wedged above them, half supported on one foot. Under these conditions we resolved to pass the night. We cursed loudly when we thought of the gear and food which we had left behind at camp, but fortunately we did not starve altogether. Geoff had a bag of peanuts and I had some raisins and chocolate. It was at this stage that I suddenly had an acute attack of "Dropsy" which seemed to. last the remainder of the trip. First I dropped the bag of peanuts, but luckily they landed on Geoff's head and so were saved, Next I dropped my own bag of scroggin and before vanishing altogether it also struck Geoff's head. After this sequence of events I was abused in two dialects, broad Yorkshire and loud Australian. They were convinced that I had dropped off to sleep, Jack was insistent Bob are you asleep? Bob you must be asleep:" Later on in endeavouring. to find a more comfortable position I dislodged "a stone which struck Jack on the leg. After this I was strongly advised by the others not to move for the rest of the night!'
-Throughout the night we were subjected to periodic gusts of freezing wind blowing through the crack. About 1 a m. we all fell silent listening with dismay to the unmistakeable sound of trickling water. From then on we passed the time deciding what we could do if our chimney was suddenly transformed into a waterfall. After what seemed an eternity we noticed that the sound of trickling water had
+Geoff joined Jack and myself whilst Rob, who was the only person wearing a parka, remained below tied to the piton. Geoff was straddled with his legs across the chimney, Jack was squatting on a chockstone and I found myself wedged above them, half supported on one foot. Under these conditions we resolved to pass the night. We cursed loudly when we thought of the gear and food which we had left behind at camp, but fortunately we did not starve altogether. Geoff had a bag of peanuts and I had some raisins and chocolate. It was at this stage that I suddenly had an acute attack of "Dropsy" which seemed to last the remainder of the trip. First I dropped the bag of peanuts, but luckily they landed on Geoff's head and so were saved. Next I dropped my own bag of scroggin and before vanishing altogether it also struck Geoff's head. After this sequence of events I was abused in two dialects, broad Yorkshire and loud Australian. They were convinced that I had dropped off to sleep. Jack was insistent, "Bob are you asleep? Bob you must be asleep!" Later on in endeavouring to find a more comfortable position I dislodged a stone which struck Jack on the leg. After this I was strongly advised by the others not to move for the rest of the night!
-The Sydney Bushwalker June 1962
-stopped and a new sound had taken its place; the unmistakeable chirp of birds from the valley far below us,, A half hour later and we were gazing out from our miserable bivouac at q bleak sky.
+Throughout the night we were subjected to periodic gusts of freezing wind blowing through the crack. About 1 a.m. we all fell silent listening with dismay to the unmistakeable sound of trickling water. From then on we passed the time deciding what we could do if our chimney was suddenly transformed into a waterfall. After what seemed an eternity we noticed that the sound of trickling water had stopped and a new sound had taken its place; the unmistakeable chirp of birds from the valley far below us. A half hour later and we were gazing out from our miserable bivouac at a bleak sky.
-After we had stretched our cramped limbs our first move was to try and climb up the chimney-crack from inside, as no one relished the thought of leading straight off onto an overhanging face. Geoff was the first to try to squeeze through the crack on the inside to a chockstone about 15 feet above us, However the bulk of both he and his clothes forced him back. During this manoeuvre I found my raisins which I had dropped during the night wedged in a crevice. I decided to try the crack next: and to give myself every possible chance, I stripped off and had Jack and Geoff remove my trousers. My efforts were not in vain and after gaining the top of the chock- stone, I put on my trousers, then threw down the rope weighted with Karabiners. From here I moved onto the face and climbed a pitch of 100 feet to the ledge at the top of the overhang.
-Jack climbed up the face to the top of the chockstone and from there brought up Geoff. Leaving Geoff to belay Rob, he then climbed up to my ledge where we waited for them. The weather had become colder and it was sleeting lightly. Time passed and we could perceive no movement from the other two; we became impatient and finally we dropped them a top rope. A short time later they joined us, and they swore that we stood at the beginning of the ramp leading to the summit. Rob and Geoff led off and we traversed to the right for a full pitch and thdn climbed for two pitches up an easy couloir. A
+After we had stretched our cramped limbs our first move was to try and climb up the chimney-crack from inside, as no one relished the thought of leading straight off onto an overhanging face. Geoff was the first to try to squeeze through the crack on the inside to a chockstone about 15 feet above us. However the bulk of both he and his clothes forced him back. During this manoeuvre I found my raisins which I had dropped during the night wedged in a crevice. I decided to try the crack next, and to give myself every possible chance, I stripped off and had Jack and Geoff remove my trousers. My efforts were not in vain and after gaining the top of the chockstone, I put on my trousers, then threw down the rope weighted with Karabiners. From here I moved onto the face and climbed a pitch of 100 feet to the ledge at the top of the overhang.
-few steps led us to a cairn. Sunlight shone briefly as we shook hands, yodelling gaily. It as 8 a m. Tuesday; 3rd January.
+Jack climbed up the face to the top of the chockstone and from there brought up Geoff. Leaving Geoff to belay Rob, he then climbed up to my ledge where we waited for them. The weather had become colder and it was sleeting lightly. Time passed and we could perceive no movement from the other two; we became impatient and finally we dropped them a top rope. A short time later they joined us, and they swore that we stood at the beginning of the ramp leading to the summit. Rob and Geoff led off and we traversed to the right for a full pitch and then climbed for two pitches up an easy couloir. A few steps led us to a cairn. Sunlight shone briefly as we shook hands, yodelling gaily. It as 8 a.m. Tuesday, 3rd January.
 Geoff handed us 4 ounces chocolate apiece from the cache he had prepared two days earlier. A photograph was taken, then we grabbed our gear and hurried down to Berchervaise Gully out of the bitter wind. A short time later we were back on the Plateau. We devoured quantities of biscuits and cheese before sinking into our sleeping bags. We slept with the sleep induced by a combination of exertion, bliss and fulfilment of purpose in our 1200 ft of climbing.
-An interesting sequel to the climh came just 24 hours later. The area was ravaged by a fierce storm with wind gusts reaching 70-80 miles per hour. The tent occupied by Rob and Jack was blown down three times and they only stopped it from blowing away by lying on top of it, wrapped in their plastic bivouac tubes.
-The climb from the valley floor to the top of the Blade was successfully accomplished by Jack OiHalloran and myself on Saturday January 7. The climb itself was no less interesting than the one just described. We completed the 1300 ft. of climbing (actually 900 feet measured vertically), in just 84 hours.
+An interesting sequel to the climb came just 24 hours later. The area was ravaged by a fierce storm with wind gusts reaching 70-80 miles per hour. The tent occupied by Rob and Jack was blown down three times and they only stopped it from blowing away by lying on top of it, wrapped in their plastic bivouac tubes.
-June 162 The Sydney Bushwalker 11.
-PLUMBING TROUBLES???
+The climb from the valley floor to the top of the Blade was successfully accomplished by Jack O'Halloran and myself on Saturday January 7. The climb itself was no less interesting than the one just described. We completed the 1300 ft. of climbing (actually 900 feet measured vertically), in just 8½ hours.
-DO YOU 'NEED -
-OR DOES
+----
-OR PERHAPS -
-NEW ROOF, GUTTERING and DOWNPIPES ??
+=== Plumbing Troubles??? ===
-THE ROOF AND GUTTERING NEED RE-PAINTING ??
-A NEW WATER SERVICE OR HOT-KATER INSTALLATION ??
+__Do you need__ new roof, guttering and downpipes??
-No job is too. small - for any plumbing installations or alterations:
-YOU NEED ROY/S FRIENDLY PLUMBING SERVICE
+__Or does__ the roof and guttering need re-painting??
-CONTACT ROY c, the S.B1,.W..,-Glub.1-rooniS' dr! "Cqntact Joe Craggs
-,-5.70arpentei-''and[Paalater 41-4-ciamond,Str. Hornsby, JU2203
+__Or perhaps__ a new water service or hot-water installation??
- ,  ,   ,
-YOU ROY '5 FRIENDLY SERVICE !!!
+No job is too small - for any plumbing installations or alterations
-=1.1-1111r
-Imramm.,.. _
+__You need Roy's friendly plumbing service__.
-........1.InisMer w...1.1.....
-FOR ALL YOUR TRANSPORT FROM BLACKHEATH CONTACT
+Contact Roy Craggs in the S.B.W. Club-rooms or contact Joe Crags, Carpenter and Painter, 41 Rosamond Street, Hornsby, Telephone JU2203.
-HATSWELL'S TAXI AND TOURIST SERVICE: RING, WRITE, WIRE OR CALL ANY HOUR _ DAY OR NIGHT
-'PHONE: Blackheath W459 or W151 BOOKING OFFICE: 4 doors from Gardners Inn Hotel (LOOK FOR THE NEON SIGN)
+__Remember__ - you need Roy's friendly service!!!
-SPEEDY 5 or 8 PASSENGER CARS AVAILABLE LARGE OR SMALL PARTIES CATERED FOR
-FARES: Kanangra Walls 30/- per head (minimum 5 passengers)
+----
-Perry's Lookdown 4/- P
- Jenolan State Forest'  20/- .
+=== Hatswell's Taxi & Tourist Service. ===
-'C anion s Farm 12/6
-WE WILL BE PLEASED TO QUOTE TRIPS OR SPECIAL PARTIES ON APPLICATION H.
+For all your transport from Blackheath contact Hatswell's Taxi & Transport Service. Ring, write, wire or call any hour - day or night.
-. The Sydney Bushwalker June. 1962... SITTIN/ ON SEVEN
+'Phone: Blackheath W459 of W151.
+Booking office: 4 doors from the Gardners Inn Hotel (look for the neon sign).
+Speedy 5 or 8 passenger cars available. Large or small parties catered for.
+Fares:
+  * Kanangra Walls: 30/- per head (minimum 5 passengers)
+  * Perry's Lookdown: 4/- per head (minimum 5 passengers)
+  * Jenolan State Forest: 20/- per head (minimum 5 passengers)
+  * Carlon's Farm: 12/6 per head (minimum 5 passengers)
+We will be pleased to quote trips or special parties on application.
+----
+SITTIN/ ON SEVEN
 A summary of good walking techniques as advocated by Wilf Hilder.
 Head forrld, tail aft,