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195610 [2020/04/17 09:39]
vievems
195610 [2020/04/17 09:59]
vievems
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 carried; with which the meeting terminated. carried; with which the meeting terminated.
                                                                                                    
- 
  
 === THE SANITARIUM HEALTH FOOD SHOP === === THE SANITARIUM HEALTH FOOD SHOP ===
Line 100: Line 99:
 What on earth did 'tempo brutof mean? BQtter get up anyway. What on earth did 'tempo brutof mean? BQtter get up anyway.
  
-     The stars shone cold and bright, but the but shook and the guy  +The stars shone cold and bright, but the but shook and the guy wires strummed and twanged in the grip of a vicious'​wind. With some misgivings about the weather we forced down some black bread, cheese and coffee, then put on storm clothing, crampons and rope inside the hut. As we stepped into the dark outside the wind enveloped us, it smote and cut at us, it tried even to invade that corner of consciousness ​which is reserved to control the placing of cramponed feet and the handling of the rope. We nearly ran. down the broad ice ridge from the Signalkuppe in our eagerness to escape the wind, and in the leeof the Parrotspitze we were rewarded by an excruciating return of  
-wires strummed and twanged in the grip of a vicious'​wind. With some  +circulation to fingers and toes, As we stepped into the Lys jock saddle the sun was already touching the top of the long steep ridge before us and the wind seemed less determined.
-misgivings about the weather we forced down some black bread, cheese ​ +
-and coffee, then put on storm clothing, crampons and rope inside the  +
-hut. As we stepped into the dark outside the wind enveloped us, it  +
-smote and cut at us, it tried even to invade that corner of conscious-  +
-ness which is reserved to control the placing of cramponed feet and the  +
-handling of the rope. We nearly ran. down the broad ice ridge from  +
-the Signalkuppe in our eagerness to escape the wind, and in the lee +
-of the Parrotspitze we were rewarded by an excruciating return of  +
-circulation to fingers and toes, As we stepped into the Lys jock saddle ​ +
-the sun was already touching the top of the long steep ridge before us  +
-and the wind seemed less determined.+
  
-     In two ropes of two we worked steadily up our ridge which was  +In two ropes of two we worked steadily up our ridge which was very steep, very narrow, but not complicated by rock steps or ice overhangs. Wind crusted snow and blue ice alternated with bewildering ​frequency, some large cornices required care, and sudden gusts of wind tried to catch us off balance, but crampons overcame all these  
-very steep, very narrow, but not complicated by rock steps or ice  +things and an hour and a half later we found ourselves rather ​unexpectedly ​on the main summit of Lyskamm, a little sloping ice hummock with sheer depths of rock and ice cliff all around it except to the west where a mile or so of narrow winding ridge led to the other peak. The wind had dropped right away, the sky was cloudless and the sun  
-overhangs. Wind crusted snow and blue ice alternated with bewilder-  +unusually hot. With thoughts of soft snow later in the day we tight- rope walked the ridge at top speed, one foot in Switzerland,​ the other in Italy, and the ice-axe for a balancing pole. We were feeling fine in spite of the altitude, and we raced over: the rock steps in the ridge non-stop, crampons and all. On the West summit we found a party  
-ing frequency, some large cornices required care, and sudden gusts +which had just come up the other side, with a guide who seemed to be something of a leg-puller. "Voila le Cervint"​ he shouted to his patrons, pointing to the bulky unmistakable mass of Monte Rosa across the way.
-of wind tried to catch us off balance, but crampons overcame all these  +
-things and an hour and a half later we found ourselves rather ​unexpec-  +
-tedly on the main summit of Lyskamm, a little sloping ice hummock ​ +
-with sheer depths of rock and ice cliff all around it except to the  +
-west where a mile or so of narrow winding ridge led to the other peak.  +
-The wind had dropped right away,, the sky was cloudless and the sun  +
-unusually hot. With thoughts of soft snow later in the day we tight- ​ +
-rope walked the ridge at top speed, one foot in Switzerland,​ the other  +
-in Italy, and the ice-axefor a balancing pole. We were feeling fine  +
-in spite of the altitude, and we raced over: the rock steps in the  +
-ridge non-stop, crampons and all. On the West summit we found a party  +
-which had just come up the other side, with a guide who seemed to be  +
-something of a leg-puller. "Voila le Cervint"​ he shouted to his  +
-patrons, pointing to the bulky unmistakable mass of Monte Rosa across ​ +
-the way.+
  
-    ​At a good pace we cramponed down the west ridge ofe Lyskamm on  +At a good pace we cramponed down the west ridge ofe Lyskamm on to the Felikjoch, a broad snow plateau feeding two glaciers. Here we began to strike soft snow and really hot sun. We took off our crampons and ploughed on, The ridge up Castor is broad, gentle and long; under conditions of slushy snow and extreme heat it is best not remembered. The west side of the mountain, however, is not a ridge but a steep ice face, complete with bulges of hard blue ice, ice-.  
-to the Felikjoch, a broad snow plateau feeding two glaciers. Here  +cliffs and threatening seracs,. It was advisable to move one at a time over part of this, and when we had reached the saddle between Castor and Pollux and moved out from below the seracs, it was time for lunch. The meal was shortened by the reappearance of our old
-we began to strike soft snow and really hot sun. We took off our  +
-crampons and ploughed on, The ridge up Castor is broad, gentle and  +
-long; under conditions of slushy snow and extreme heat it is best  +
-not remembered. The west side of the mountain, however, is not a +
-ridge but a steep ice face, complete with bulges of hard blue ice, ice-.  +
-cliffs and threatening seracs,. It was advisable to move one at a +
-time over part of this, and when we had reached the saddle between ​ +
-Castor and Pollux and moved out from below the seracs, it was time  +
-for lunch. The meal was shortened by the reappearance of our old+
  
-                           PHOTOGRAPHY I 1? I                  t+PHOTOGRAPHY I 
  
  
Line 196: Line 160:
   greatest of ease.   greatest of ease.
  
-        ​At last we reached the top, a short curved piece of snow ridge, ​ +At last we reached the top, a short curved piece of snow ridge, and considered what to do next. The huge mass of the Breithorn was temptingly close, but it was getting late and the snow was becoming dangerously soft, in fact the immediate problem was how to get off Pollux without being mixed up with an avalanche. We chose the north  
-  ​and considered what to do next. The huge mass of the Breithorn was +.face directly below us; in almost perpetual shadow, it had kept a thin layer of firm snow, well bonded to the ice. As we left the summit a few streaks of racing mist formed around us out of the clear sky; minutes later, as we prepared to leap the bergschrund,​ the air around us '​thickened into dense cloud. Once off the steep face we set  
- +off down a broad snow ridge atA jog-trot, with the bad weather right behind us. On and on for hours, as fast as we could go, wallowing through knee-deep snow. There was one brief pause to negotiate a  
-6. +steep and avalanchy slope, and another when I broke•throUgh a crevasse'​bridge. At last, sf•aked in sweat and snow-melt, we reached the left lateral moraine of the Gorner Glacier while volloys of  
- +thunder sounded out of black clouds on our peaks of the morning. ​ Two miles of slithering and jumping over the ice-hummocks of the • Gorner and we were safe on the track to Zermatt. I stopped to take 
-temptingly close, but it was getting late and the snow was becoming ​ +
-dangerously soft, in fact the immediate problem was how to get off  +
-Pollux without being mixed up with an avalanche. We chose the north  +
-.face directly below us; in almost perpetual shadow, it had kept a  +
-thin layer of firm snow, well bonded to the ice. As we left the  +
-summit a few streaks of racing mist formed around us out of the clear  +
-sky; minutes later, as we prepared to leap the bergschrund,​ the air  +
-around us '​thickened into dense cloud. Once off the steep face we set  +
-off down a broad snow ridge atA jog-trot, with the bad weather right  +
-behind us. On and on for hours, as fast as we could go, wallowing ​ +
-through knee-deep snow. There was one brief pause to negotiate a  +
-steep and avalanchy slope, and another when I broke•throUgh a  +
-crevasse'​bridge. At last, sf•aked in sweat and snow-melt, we reached ​ +
-the left lateral moraine of the Gorner Glacier while volloys of  +
-thunder sounded out of black clouds on our peaks of the morning. +
-Two miles of slithering and jumping over the ice-hummocks of the •  +
-Gorner and we were safe on the track to Zermatt. I stopped to take +
 off two sweaters and a pair of long trousers, and raced off to catch  off two sweaters and a pair of long trousers, and raced off to catch 
 up the others. People of various nationalities all along the track  up the others. People of various nationalities all along the track 
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-           COMING SOCIAL EVENTS for OCTOBER. ​+=== COMING SOCIAL EVENTS for OCTOBER. ​=== 
 + 
  
-   Oct. 17th. "​WHAT'​S WRONG WITH THAT SLIDE"​. +|Oct. 17th.|"​WHAT'​S WRONG WITH THAT SLIDE"​.|Bring along your slides, both good and bad, and have them expertly criticised. ​ There will also be a talk on the scope of colour film. Keith Renwick would like to have your slides handed in as soon as possible.|                              ​ 
-              ​Bring along your slides, both good and bad, and +|Oct.24th.|MEMBERS'​ SLIDE NIGHT.|Bring along your slides and let us see what you've been taking.| 
-              ​have them expertly criticised. +|Oct.31.|SWITZERLAND.|Slides and talk by Don Shepherd.|
-              ​There will also be a talk on the scope of colour film.  +
-              ​Keith Renwick would like to have your slides handed +
-                ​in as soon as possible. +
-                                   ••■1•=1.1. +
-   Oct.24th. MEMBERS'​ SLIDE NIGHT. Bring along your slides and +
-              ​let us see what you've been taking. +
-                          ​aMINRIMa.ml.gwIMMIMM. +
-   Oct.31. ​ SWITZERLAND. Slides and talk by Don Shepherd.+
  
                                                    7,                                                    7,
195610.txt · Last modified: 2020/04/17 10:13 by vievems